Haircolor Levels and Peroxide Developer In any discussion of haircolor, it is important to talk about color level and developer. Level refers to the lightness or darkness of a particular haircolor. It's shown on a scale of one to ten with 1 being black and 10 being palest blonde. The haircolor formulas available also have a level on this same scale. This tells you how light or dark the finished color will be. Developer is the oxidizing agent that allows the haircolor to do its job. Most permanent haircolor today uses hydrogen peroxide as a developer. The peroxide opens the cuticle so that the color can penetrate. It also disperses the existing color and can lighten the hair's color level depending on the strength of the peroxide formulation. Show
10 Volume Peroxide is a standard oxidizing strength for permanent, no-lift haircolor. Designed for use when you simply want to add a tint or color tone to hair of the same lightness level, 10 Volume Peroxide opens the cuticle layer of the hair allowing the color molecules to penetrate and color to be deposited in the cortex. 20 Volume Peroxide is also a common strength with permanent haircolor and opens the hair cuticle like 10 Volume, but also offers lifting of the hair's level by 1-to-2 levels. 20 Volume Peroxide is used to best effect when the hairs starting level is no more than one shade darker than the color you are trying to achieve. 30 Volume Peroxide works just like 20 Volume except that it will lift the hair's starting color by 2-to-3 levels and works best when the target color is no more than two levels lighter than the starting color. It's important to remember that the stronger the developer is, the harsher it can be on your hair. You should always use a moisturizing conditioner after applying a stronger haircolor. There are Hydrogen Peroxide Developers that are stronger than 30 Volume (there is also 40 Volume and 50 Volume formulas), but you should NEVER use these strengths on your own. Developers above 30 Volume strength work very quickly, and without careful monitoring, these formulas can destroy the integrity of your hair. Lighteners: Right now, you're probably asking yourself "If 30 Volume Peroxide is the strongest developer you recommend, how do I get my dark brown hair (level 3) to blonde (level 8)?" The answer is relatively simple. You'll need to use a lightener first. Lighteners are bleaching agents that are mixed with developers to decolorize - or lift the color from - the hair, usually in preparation for adding a lighter color tone, or for generating dramatic highlights. Lighteners come in two basic types - on-the-scalp lighteners and off-the-scalp lighteners. They're classified as such because they are designed to be safe when applied on or off the scalp as the name indicates. Off-the-scalp lighteners are much stronger and should never be used so that they come in direct contact with the scalp because they will cause chemical burns. These lighteners are generally designed for use with highlighting or frosting caps where they don't rest on the head. On-the-scalp lighteners are formulated to be safely applied to the hair and in the scalp area. Often, on-the-scalp lighteners are slower working, but infinitely safer for the scalp. Using any lightener requires careful monitoring of the hair as it is being decolorized, because it can easily be over-processed. However, once you get your hair lightened to the desired level, you can then color it as you desire, and know that you'll get the color you are trying for. You should also remember that while haircolor when mixed with a developer goes inert after 30 minutes, lighteners will remain active as long as they are moist. As a result, even a lightener mixed with only 10 Volume Peroxide can result in over-processing if not watched carefully. You also want to be careful that your hair is in good condition before you lighten it. Damaged or porous hair can become irreparably harmed by lightening. Stacy - Hair Stylist ©Hairfinder.com See also: Peroxide mixing formula What does peroxide developer do? Imagine sitting behind the wheel of your ideal car. You start the engine and hit the gas. As the speedometer climbs you get to your destination faster...but you also lose a bit of control. Can you get to your final destination safely going 80mph? Maybe. Can you get there going 60mph and incur less risk? Absolutely. It's the same with your trusty developers. Each developer has its use – just like each speed has its appropriate time and place. To let you on in the best ways to use 10, 20, 30, 40 volume developer and everything in between we’ve created this handy guide to answer the question: what volume developer should I use? Common Questions:What exactly is developer?Developer is, quite simply, hydrogen peroxide. Different companies will include different additives but at a base level the hydrogen peroxides job is to lift the cuticle layer of the hair. The stronger the developer the more the cuticle opens. What is the difference between cream and clear developers?Mainly, consistency. A thicker viscosity (cream) allows for an easier application and more control while a more liquid consistency (clear) allows the color to go further and more easily saturate the hair. Color lines will specify what developers should be used with their various color lines. Chemists spend countless hours figuring out the best combination so following the color lines suggestions is always best. Does it really matter if I used the same developer as the color or can I use a generic developer?Since the primary active ingredient of a developer is hydrogen peroxide any developer should work with most any color line. HOWEVER, many color lines spend years formulating a specific developer to best work with their color formula and thus lift, tonality, longevity and consistency can only be guaranteed when using the ideal partner products. Volumes and Uses:5 Volume5 volume is a lesser-used developer but often teamed with semi and demi-permanent color lines for its minimal effect on the cuticle. Many color lines will allow you to use their permanent color with 5 volume for ‘deposit only’ results. The hair will no longer be virgin and it will shift the natural shade, however, it will not offer grey coverage or lift. Its role is as an activator for the color and will typically be in developers specifically made for glazes and toners. When used with bleach, 5 volume can create a very slight shift in the hair, which is great for fragile baby hairs needing only1-2 levels of lift. 10 Volume10 volume will slightly open the cuticle and allow for moderate penetration of color molecules. Similar to 5 volume, 10 volume can be used with permanent color lines for depositing color, however, it will not offer much grey coverage or lift. If the hair is a finer fabric it could over a slight one level lighter shift in base color and grey blending. Ten volume is also the default developer for many toners and glazes, however, keep in mind that this higher volume developer means a possible shift to the natural base color. When 10 volume is used with bleach it can give 1-4 levels of lift depending on the bleach, the method of application, and the hair. 20 Volume20 volume is likely the most used developer in the salon. Twenty volume will give 1-2 levels of lift when used with permanent hair color. On finer fabrics it may even give up to 3 levels of lift. It is the standard developer for grey coverage, however, a stronger developer may be needed for more resistant hair types. Twenty volume should not be used as a developer for toner or glazes especially when wanting to maintain a natural base. When used with bleach, 20 volume is a powerful tool lifting 1-9 levels depending on the bleach, method of application, and hair type/history. This combination steadily opens the cuticle and consumes the pigments while allowing time for the rest of your application. 20 volume is the highest level of developer that should be used on the scalp with bleach as the scalp produces more heat and increases the power of the developer. 30 Volume30 volume developer is ideal for lifting 2-4 levels using permanent hair color depending on the texture of the hair. It can also be used for grey coverage on more resistant hair types. Thirty volume should never be used for basic deposit only color as it will blast the cuticle for no reason. When used with bleach and foils 30 volume works fast and may incur the risk of over-processing. This developer is more ideal for open-air processing which incubates less heat. Applications with 30 volume should never be placed under heat and should be monitored regularly and ideally, a test strand should be performed prior to use. 40 Volume40 volume developer can be used with permanent hair color and high lift color to give 3-4 levels of lift depending on the power of the color and the texture of the hair. Open-air processing such as balayage is ideal for 40 volume developer as it allows for maximum lift but the control of less heat. Bleach, forty volume, and foils can be a dangerous combination, so tread carefully. 50+ VolumeIn recent years developers of 50 volume and above have become increasingly popular due to all the popular hand painting techniques. As trendy as these may be we must be careful and always consider the desired end result and the integrity of our client's hair. These developers are not made to be used in foils or with color. Can you use 50 developer to lighten hair?We recommend using a 20 or 30 volume developer. 40 and 50 volume developers are extremely strong. While they'll lighten your hair much more than the lower concentrations, they can also cause significant damage to your hair and scalp.
How long can you leave 50 volume bleach in your hair?The maximum amount of time you should leave bleach on your hair is 30 minutes. Any longer than that and you run the risk of serious damage, including brittle strands.
What volume developer is best for dark hair?What developer should I use for dark hair? If you have dark hair and are looking to go darker, use a volume 10 with your dye. If you're looking to lighten your hair one or two levels, use volume 20. For 2-3 shades lighter, use a volume 30 developer.
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50 volume developer on dark hair
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