I have 18x18 inch square travertine tiles. I would like to know if it is feasible to cut each tile in half and make a herringbone pattern for our bathroom floor. I was planning on using 1/8" grout lines and I'm not sure how to make everything fit nicely together with the awkward measurements, spacings, and cuts.
Any tips or tricks for doing this or should I just resort to a diamond pattern instead?
PS: I love diagrams
asked Mar 29, 2015 at 23:19
Joe PhillipsJoe Phillips
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Travertine Limestone - These are natural stone tiles with a saw cut edge.
I would rent and use a diamond saw tile cutter and use plenty of water during the cut to keep the blade cool and the lime dust down.
It's all in the setup on the saw, make sure you get the sawcut exactly centered, cut in one smooth stroke and make sure the tile is secured so it won't move during the cutting operation.
Otherwise you'll get a funny cut that will be obvious in the final layout.
Travertine and Slate are some of the softest and most easily cuttable natural tile you will work with. Be aware that either can have imperfections and can break away on the edges so have spare material available.
answered May 30, 2015 at 4:16
Fiasco LabsFiasco Labs
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Measure your tiles, chances are they're not a true 18" anyway. You can cut all four edges of course, but that's a lot of work. Are you able to order more tiles that match what you have? If you can, it's likely that they're available in a 9x18 or 8x16 size.
Alternatively you could use a belt sander to smooth the cut edge although it still might look different than the factory edge.
answered Mar 30, 2015 at 2:15
7
You can, of course, do something like this. There are several big caveats:
Get a good book on tile setting; there are a lot of nuances and you want to thoroughly read the advice of the pros before going into a project like this
With any custom pattern, you need to meticulously plan it; you need to design out the pattern with EXACT measurements so you know exactly how the pattern will play out
Once you start making the pattern you will need to make small adjustments. The room will not be square and there will be other errors that creep in; you have to make small adjustments in the cuts to compensate for this; skill in making such adjustments is why pro tile setters get paid the big bucks
Doing a custom floor is a LOT of work; think long and hard about how much time you are willing to devote to this, because it will be days, if not weeks of solid work.
answered Mar 30, 2015 at 2:27
Tyler DurdenTyler Durden
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| #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2020 Posts: 3 | How to measure and mark tiles in a herringbone? Hello, I've a fairly straightforward problem. I dont know how to measure and mark where to cut the floor tiles in a herringbone pattern. There's plenty of good instruction on how to mark tiles and use templates, but i can't figure out the simplest way to mark up a herringbone pattern. I'm tiling the floor of a small, 100 sq ft room, with 12x24 porcelain tiles in a herringbone pattern. I dont know how to mark the tiles to be cut at the walls. Please help! __________________ |
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| #2 |
Moderator -- Mud Man
Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Princeton,Tx.- Dallas area Posts: 34,161 | That's a broad question. Herringbone can be run square or on a 45 with the room. Usually it's run on a 45 so you see the pattern. So, you mark and cut the tiles on a 45. |
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| #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2020 Posts: 3 | It's run on a 45 but either I didn't center and square correctly or the walls aren't entirely straight because the angle at the walls isn't 45. How do I mark the correct angle? __________________ |
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| #4 |
Moderator -- Mud Man
Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Princeton,Tx.- Dallas area Posts: 34,161 | If you layout the floor correctly and the walls are fairly straight and square, the cuts will repeat the same size. If you layout the pattern out of square then the cuts will get bigger or smaller. I like to layout the pattern parallel with my longest wall whenever possible. Using a chalk line is very handy. To mark a 45 on tiles, I use a speed square. They also make an adjustable square that has a wing nut to change the angle. You can set the angle you need and transfer that angle onto the tiles. |
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| #5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2020 Posts: 3 | An adjustable square is exactly what i need! Thank you Davy. __________________ |
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| #6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Kansas City Posts: 1,763 | Getting started square is key to a easier install. And I see Davy already answered your question Attached Images
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| #7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Annandale, Va Posts: 204 | Shawn, I’m getting ready to do a herringbone pattern on a shower wall, the 5’ wall. I like your idea of wood stops to get things started. Would you do the same thing for the first row on a shower wall? Or use something else. Guess I could use some plywood squares. __________________ |
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| #8 |
Moderator -- Mud Man
Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Princeton,Tx.- Dallas area Posts: 34,161 | I avoid poking holes in shower walls although they can be patched. You can draw lines and use a non-sag thinset to help hold the tiles in place. |
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| #9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Kansas City Posts: 1,763 | What are you doing for waterproofing? __________________ |
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| #10 |
Tile and stone contractor Tile setter
Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Boca Raton Florida Posts: 487 | For shower walls I will lay the wall out on the floor. I would then make a template of the wall. Lay the template over the tiles laid on the floor. Cut all the tiles then install. __________________ Karlstile.com |
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| #11 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Annandale, Va Posts: 204 | Hmmm I like the idea of laying it out on the floor. At least the first few rows to get my layout down. __________________ |
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| #12 |
Moderator -- Mud Man
Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Princeton,Tx.- Dallas area Posts: 34,161 | That will work as long as you make everything accurate. When making the cuts in the corners, I like to keep the cut-offs and fold the pattern onto the next wall. It's kinda hard to explain but when running herringbone on walls, I usually cut some strips of tile and stick them in the very corner. This way the back wall cuts doesn't tuck back behind the end walls but rather come together nicely in the corner. If the tiles are 3/8 thick, the strips I mention need to be 3/8x3/8. The strips will be hidden but it gives me something to lean my tiles against. Wedges are handy and a non sag thinset is nice to use. |
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| #13 |
Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Fairfax, Va Posts: 5,322 | I understand what you mean, Davy, but does that method provide enough bonding area for the silicone caulk to adhere to? __________________ |
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| #14 |
Moderator -- Mud Man
Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Princeton,Tx.- Dallas area Posts: 34,161 | I've never had a problem doing it that way but I usually grout my corners. |
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| #15 |
Moderator -- Mud Man
Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Princeton,Tx.- Dallas area Posts: 34,161 | Just like any pattern, you want to make sure to start off level at the bottom. If it starts out out of level at the bottom the cuts in the corners won't be the same as you go up. That is if your walls are plumb. If you're going to use the cut-off pieces to fold onto the end wall, you might need to number them so they mate back up. Herringbone can be a PITA and definitely takes longer to install. |
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