2008 chevy malibu 2.4 crankshaft position sensor location

I have found nothing on google

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The crank sensor is mounted to the engine block above the starter.Dec 14, 2016 https://www.autocodes.com › where... Where is the crankshaft sensor located on the 2.4L Ecotec Engine ...

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at the bell housing there is probably a little cover~ have seen that in the past, if not visible the main crank should have markings for you~

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You tried googling the exact answer you wrote above?... sometimes you have to use Google images or videos. I just tried it and it will show you a diagram of the engine and location of each part

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gotta drop the starter to access

So I have a 08 Malibu with the 2.4L Ecotech motor. A few months ago I lost a rod and destroyed the original engine. I had it replaced with the same engine from a wrecked car. When I got it, it ran like a dream, everything was gravy. About two weeks into driving it with the new motor, the check engine light came on. Upon acceleration from time to time it would stutter, or almost kind of chuck along as it was gaining speed. So I read the code one the check engine light. It shot out a code for the camshaft position sensor, and another code stating it was lean on bank 1. I assume... I know that all deadly word.... that it is lean due to the sensor. So I took the sensors off of the old motor and put them on the new motor. Well now to my dismay the car starts awfully hard then dies after about 5 second of revving. So I out the sensors back in it that where in it, and now... it still starts rough and dies. So here is my question. Should I put in brand new sensors and hope it does the trick or does anyone know what else it might be? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Lean codes usually means a vacuum leak. A leak big enough to set a code will affect idle quality.
A bad sensor code usually means the sensor is bad or the circuit to it is bad.
Were the engines the same year? There are differences from year to year so swapping sensors may not work even though it's the same size motor. You would need to cross reference both motors to see if sensors are the same.
Any thing is possible on a engine swap, especially a damaged wiring harness which is very common to happen on swaps so check over everything.
Your gonna need a good manual to properly diagnose the sensors. Just tossing in parts may not fix it. It's a computer on tires.

Yeah I have a manual on the car, i believe it is a Haynes. I will look into the new sensors and check out the vacuum issues and get back to you.

Ok so I did some digging and found that the motor that went in the car is the same generation and motor that came out. They are both LE5 2.4L ecotech engines. They both take the same exact camshaft position sensor. So I do not get, why changing those camshaft sensors then changing them back to the ones that were in it, would stop it from running, when it had been running before hand.

What are the code numbers exactly ? That helps us a lot. Intake, exhaust or both.
If it was the crankshaft sensor you would need a high end scan tool to perform a relearn procedure. Not so for the cam sensor.
My first thought is a wire harness issue to the sensor. Sensors are fragile, tossed around they can be damaged.

Well, it has been a while since I updated this. The problem persists. I did replace the camshaft and crankshaft sensors, to no avail. When I replaced the camshaft sensors with new ones, the car started running decently. Unfortunately, I can drive it into town, shut the car off to do some shopping and come out ten minutes later to a car that does not want to start. I then have to turn the key off and cycle it into accessory mode about 3-5 times and then it will crank and start. It has even gotten worse than that in the last couple of months. I would be driving and it would be fine for about 10-15 minutes. Then the car would start lugging like it was not wanting to speed up. Then one day on the way to work it even died at a stop sign. I have since then parked the car.
When the motor was swapped I made sure that it was the same motor that came out of the vehicle, or so I was told. I told them I did not want a different year or engine model at all. This was an attempt to avert the issues of having a different motor. So next I will produce the codes that are currently on, on the car.

P0013 - B camshaft position actuator circuit/ open bank 1
P0017 - Crankshaft position Camshaft position correlation bank 1 sensor B
P0641 - Sensor reference voltage A circuit/open

I have had a few people suggest to me to look into fuel pump/filter issues. Any help on this would be incredibly appreciated.

"Circuit/open" suggests to me that there may be an issue with the reference voltage being sent, or possibly a damaged wire or terminal in one or more plugs, or in one plug that services all of those sensors.

A "tug test" could reveal some interesting data.

So not to sound stupid, I don't want to assume. What is a "tug test"?

Good question, and don't worry how it sounds, as you're here to gather information. You can't do that by sitting on your hands.

It involves wiggling or tugging the wires. Sounds simple, but what you're after is to find out if there are any wires that may have severed inside the insulation where you can't see them, or possibly any loose connections such as plugs that are only barely latched. One of the signs of a wire that has come apart inside the insulation is a weird bulge in it at one location (the wire seems to have folded over on itself) and maybe a thinner spot where the wire is either down to a few strands or is severed. Tugging on that section would let you stretch the insulation or pull it apart to reveal the issue.

You're also looking for wires that go around corners and may be compromised, such as shorted on a piece of metal or too tight.

Something else to add to your inspection is to pull any fuses or relays that may be involved. This lets you check the condition of the terminals to see if they're corroded or discolored and maybe swap in a different one. Most modern relays with 4 pins can be rotated 180* and still do the same job. They need to have a pin at each corner to do so.

Open circuit codes means harness issues or poor connections at the connectors. Engine may be going into limp mode due to no sensor feedback to the PCM.
Reference voltage is the power the PCM sends to the sensor to power it so it sends back it's feedback/reading. Definite harness or connection issues with those codes.

I know it has been a long time since I posted in here, but the problem persists. I kind of tabled the project as I had alot of motorcycle work to do, but now I am back at it. I worked on the car a bit getting it back to moving as it had sat for a while. Everything was fine drove fine no stutter or anything for about a week. Now it is throwing the same codes. I did a tug test and found it affected nothing. I also found that in the top of the motor near the Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoid / Actuator, that there is oil residue on top of the motor.

Might there be an issue there, causing this?

A little oil up there shouldn't affect it. Did you use aftermarket sensors when you replaced them? Aftermarket sensors are junk, OEM should only be used in any sensor replacement. With the harness ''tubes'' all disintegrated I would check for any wire insulation that has been rubbed through also as todays "spaghetti" wires have thin insulation.

When I was doing the tug tests yesterday I was following those wires. I looked at each of the ones from the deteriorated tubes and did not find bare wires. The more this goes on the more I am stuck thinking I need a fresh pair of eyes looking at this. No I replaced with OEM when it came to the sensors.

What codes are currently being triggered?

For the sake of clarity, I removed the duplicate code images from your post. These are the 5 active codes. Hoo boy.

P0365
P0366
P0017
P0013
P0171

Yes. The last 4 images are pending codes while the first five are active codes.

So I was looking at a few sites and it stated that if the sensor wire is routed too closely to spark plug wiring that it could cause interference. Being that the tubing is broken up I'm thinking this could be the issue? Maybe rewrapping the wires and rerouting them may do the trick?

The corrugated tubing that disintegrates in a very short time makes no difference if the issue is interference from another circuit.

Yes, it would be good to wrap the wires or cover them just to protect them physically.

The only 2 ways I can think of that will make any difference with interference are moving them or shielding them with metal that has been grounded. If they're malfunctioning due to interference, that means that the other circuit is powerful enough to induce a current in your affected circuit(s). Distance and/or shielding are the only solutions.

Actuator solenoids resistance is 8 - 12 ohms between terminals and zero to outside. P0013 is the exhaust one, P0017 is also exhaust cam related. P0171 lean fuel trims common is vacuum leaks first, if no leaks then map or maf sensors. 365 366 are exauast cam sensor issues. Is oil leaking from a actuator solenoid then it's bad. Check the solenoids, they are a common fail item. Bad solenoid could set other codes if it doesn't actuate the cam.