2014 jeep wrangler recirculation door actuator replacement

Sorry... Reposting, as I am not able to edit my original post to fix the formatting problem.

I pulled out my glovebox to investigate the clicking sound behind the dash and it appears to be the recirculation door. I found a video from someone else that has the identical problem, which I have posted at the bottom.

Basically, the air door opens and closes, but when closing it doesn't stop at the end and keeps trying to close the recirculation door, which causes the clicking. The comments on the Youtube video indicate that the problem is the actuator and that replacement is difficult. Could it be a sensor instead? It seems like the actuator is actually moving the door properly?

OK, first a stupid question: I don't have A/C and there is no recirc option on my controls, so how is the function of the recirculation door even controlled? Can I just disconnect the power to it and force it to always draw in outside air?

I haven't been able to find a part number or replacement instructions online, the Youtube comments seem to indicate this is best left to the dealer?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FyM_kT8QJpo

Sorry... Reposting, as I am not able to edit my original post to fix the formatting problem.

I pulled out my glovebox to investigate the clicking sound behind the dash and it appears to be the recirculation door. I found a video from someone else that has the identical problem, which I have posted at the bottom.

Basically, the air door opens and closes, but when closing it doesn't stop at the end and keeps trying to close the recirculation door, which causes the clicking. The comments on the Youtube video indicate that the problem is the actuator and that replacement is difficult. Could it be a sensor instead? It seems like the actuator is actually moving the door properly?

OK, first a stupid question: I don't have A/C and there is no recirc option on my controls, so how is the function of the recirculation door even controlled? Can I just disconnect the power to it and force it to always draw in outside air?

I haven't been able to find a part number or replacement instructions online, the Youtube comments seem to indicate this is best left to the dealer?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FyM_kT8QJpo

Mine started to do the same thing in reverse.. it is clicking when it is opening all the way... Super annoying... I'll post if i find a fis and check back to see if you find one lol. :bop:

sign me up. I just joined the club. hahaha.. from reading some other posts, sounds like it's going to be a pain to fix.

I just replaced my actuator yesterday. Took 3 hours, a lot of patients, and some creative body positioning to do it. I highly recommend buying a 1/4 thumb wheel ratchet since it is a very tight space and a standard ratchet wrench does not fit all too well. I got my actuator from ebay for $22.

I disconnected the door electronics and undid the strap so I could swing the door out of the way and give myself more room to work.

You need to remove glove box, then the 3 7mm screws holding the lower dash. Followed by the speaker. It is held in by 2 7mm screws that are under the end panel on the dash, and one larger 10mm one on the bottom. Gently pull the dash out a bit, and rotate the speaker so that you can remove it through the glove box opening.

My actuator was held in by 2 7mm screws. Accessing the screws is tough. I used a length of paracord to pull the wiring harness down and out of the way so I could get my hand and the socket to the back screw. Just tied it off to the door strap hook. Then used a paint stir stick to push the harness up out of the way to get at the front screw.

I was able to undo and tighten the screws with just a socket and a very short extension. No wrench since there was not room. I had to lay on my back across the seats in order to be able to get my arm up into position to reach the screws.

Once the screws were out the actuator just popped off and fell down to the floor. I disconnected the wiring, connected the new actuator, and reversed the process.

Getting the screws back in was pretty tricky. Just be patient and try out different things till you figure out what works for you.

I just replaced my actuator yesterday. Took 3 hours, a lot of patients, and some creative body positioning to do it. I highly recommend buying a 1/4 thumb wheel ratchet since it is a very tight space and a standard ratchet wrench does not fit all too well. I got my actuator from ebay for $22. I disconnected the door electronics and undid the strap so I could swing the door out of the way and give myself more room to work.
You need to remove glove box, then the 3 7mm screws holding the lower dash. Followed by the speaker. It is held in by 2 7mm screws that are under the end panel on the dash, and one larger 10mm one on the bottom. Gently pull the dash out a bit, and rotate the speaker so that you can remove it through the glove box opening. My actuator was held in by 2 7mm screws. Accessing the screws is tough. I used a length of paracord to pull the wiring harness down and out of the way so I could get my hand and the socket to the back screw. Just tied it off to the door strap hook. Then used a paint stir stick to push the harness up out of the way to get at the front screw. I was able to undo and tighten the screws with just a socket and a very short extension. No wrench since there was not room. I had to lay on my back across the seats in order to be able to get my arm up into position to reach the screws. Once the screws were out the actuator just popped off and fell down to the floor. I disconnected the wiring, connected the new actuator, and reversed the process. Getting the screws back in was pretty tricky. Just be patient and try out different things till you figure out what works for you.

Thanks for the info, I'm having the exact issue in my 2011. Would you mind linking me the exact part needed? I keep seeing blend door actuators but I've no idea if its the same actuator for the recirculating door.

Also, does anybody know of any videos for this repair? My mechanic quoted me $350 to fix but id rather do it myself for $30.

Also, what is the worst that will happen if it doesn't get repaired? Mine has been like this for months now and I still have heat and AC.

Got my actuator off ebay. Here's a link:https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=2011-2016+Jeep+Wrangler+Air+Flap+Actuator+35136FK&_sacat=0

As for a video there's a lot of them on youtube that show replacing the driver's side, but not the one behind the glove box. It's tough to get to. All the way to the right and up against the firewall. I was too involved with making the repair to bother with doing a video.

A finger wheel/thumb wheel drive ratchet might be a good idea since you can't get a wrench in there. I was able to do it with just the socket.

I also stacked some crates and my creeper next to the passenger door so that I had something to lay on.

Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.

NP I appreciate it. I ordered the part and a cheap thumb drive set from amazon. Ill let you know how it goes.

Are you positive on the part? The dealer wanted 125.00, and I cannot find the correct part number

Are you positive on the part? The dealer wanted 125.00, and I cannot find the correct part number

Welcome to the Forum.

I just changed out this part. Roughly 2 hours and a little lost skin here and there. Here is my brain dump in addition to what’s been noted so far:

• I didn’t remove any of the dash screws in order to get the speaker out via the glove box hole
• All my work was done with my left hand while sitting on the seat or the door rail
• The rear 7mm screw can be accessed with a 7mm socket and a thumb drive. No room for a ratchet
• For the front screw, my wiring harness was too much in the way for the thumb drive. I I was able to use a 7mm open end wrench to loosen it, the slipped the socket on and finger loosened it the rest of the way.
• A very rewarding save of $300+

FWIW... in the many times my Jeep has been in for "no drivers side heat" - one item that always appeared on the work order was to "re-calibrate blend doors". So there may be an electronic calibration stored somewhere? Not sure what/how they actually do that.

I have this same issue with my jeep. I always use the recirculating option when using heat or ac. Anyone know of an easy ways to just cut power to the recirculting door so it just stays in the closed position and thus I won't need to do what sounds like a pain in the butt repair?
Thanks