A pond is one of the most beneficial habitats you can create in a garden. Virtually all garden wildlife will use it – birds will drink and bathe in it, amphibians, dragonflies, damselflies, pond skaters, water boatmen and a whole host of other invertebrates will breed in it. Mammals will drink from a pond, too. Every garden should have one and not just for the wildlife – they’re so much fun for us! In this No Fuss video guide, wildlife expert Kate Bradbury looks at
the main elements needed when creating a wildlife pond in a garden. She looks at the importance of sloping sides, a wide range of pond plants plus the need for dense, low-growing foliage around the pond to provide shelter for emerging wildlife: The pond below is designed to look as natural as possible, with no visible pond liner. This gives your pond a nicer finish, making it more pleasing to
look at, but also works better for wildlife. Lined with subsoil from the bottom of the pond hole, your natural pond will attract red mason bees and house martins as well as usual pond visitors, which will benefit from the extra source of available mud. The trick to hiding the pond liner is to buy extra felt underlay and lay this over the butyl liner. You then add a thick layer of subsoil from the bottom of your pond hole (about 10cm) over the underlay, and plant directly into it. Subsoil
has fewer nutrients than topsoil and is therefore less likely to cause problems with algae, which feed on water nutrients, later on. Over time, the plant roots will knit together and stop soil erosion, but the water may be muddy for a few months. Don’t worry – this is perfectly normal. Initially, before the pond settles, the water may turn green. Algae feeds on nutrients in the water, which will eventually be absorbed by plants as they grow (using subsoil to line the pond will help
reduce the likelihood of this being a problem). Green pond water is nothing to worry about in the short term, and should sort itself out as the pond matures, but if you get blanket weed, you can remove this with a bamboo stick, twirling it around as if gathering candyfloss. Place the blanket weed in a bucket of water and swill it around to dislodge any trapped wildlife, which you can then return to the water.
Duckweed can also be dealt with in this way. For the healthiest pond, aim to have plants growing across about two-thirds of the water’s surface. Remove leaves and other detritus each autumn, and add more subsoil if the underlay becomes visible at the edges. More on garden ponds: You Will Need
Step 1Use a hose to create the shape of your pond on the ground and then dig. Aim for a depth of 45-60cm in the centre, graduating to 30cm near the edge. Keep the subsoil to one side to use later. Check the sides are level using a piece of wood and spirit level.
How to make a wildlife pond – digging a hole Step 2Lay the underlay in the hole, tucking it into the corners, especially in the deeper area. Where necessary, fold over and weigh down with smooth stones. Take off your shoes if you need to walk on it. Then, still with your shoes off, lay the butyl liner over the underlay. Smooth out any creases and fold over where necessary, but try to keep folds to a minimum. Use the stones that you used to secure the underlay to now secure the liner. Check the liner totally covers the underlay.
How to make a wildlife pond – laying butyl liner over underlay Step 3With your shoes on, lay a second layer of underlay over the liner. It helps if the underlay is a different colour to the liner so you can properly see what you’re doing. It doesn’t matter if you have to lay the underlay in strips – just make sure you can’t see the liner.
How to make a wildlife pond – laying underlay over the butyl liner Step 4Use a spade to add a thick layer of subsoil over the underlay and firm with your feet. If the soil is too dry, wet it a bit, but avoid wetting it too much as this job can quickly become messy! Make sure the mud completely covers the underlay.
How to make a wildlife pond – covering the second layer of underlay with subsoil Step 5Take marginal plants, such as brooklime and water forget-me-not, from their containers and gently tease apart the roots. Plant portions of them directly into the mud, all around the edge. Pack the plants closely together.
How to make a wildlife pond – planting marginals directly into the subsoil Step 6Now it’s time to add water, while trying not to dislodge any mud. If you can, use rainwater from a water butt. But if you can’t do this then tap water is fine, but as tap water contains more nutrients than rainwater, you may find you get algae forming until the plants have grown.
How to make a wildlife pond – adding water to the pond Step 7Add stones and logs to the edge of the pond to make a beach. Add oxygenating plants, such as hornwort and spiked water milfoil, to the water. Finally, cut the excess liner and underlay from the edge of the pond. Use more mud to hide any last bits of liner.
How to make a wildlife pond -adding a log to the pond edge How deep should a wildlife pond be UK?In general, the larger the pond the more wildlife you can expect to attract. A depth of 20-60cm (8in-2ft) varied across the pond will suit the majority of pond flora and fauna.
How do you build a garden wildlife pond UK?Dig out an area of shallow ground, big enough so that it won't dry out. Unlike a pond, when you line it you should puncture the lining to allow for some drainage. Plant it with bog-loving plants like purple loosefuit, marsh marigold and water mint. Enjoy your boggy wildlife paradise and watch it grow and mature!
How do I build a small wildlife pond UK?What to do. Choose a spot. Your pond will want light, but not full sunlight all day. ... . If the container isn't watertight, e.g. an old plant pot, then add a piece of pond liner.. Add a layer of gravel and rocks. Use logs or stones to create a range of depths and a slope for creatures to climb in and out. ... . Start planting!. What is the best shape for a wildlife pond?The best wildlife ponds are irregular, kidney or rounded in shape as these look much more natural. Now's the time to really muck in and start digging. Depending how you intend to finish the pond, you might want to lift and put aside the turf to lay as edging at the end.
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