How to replace rubber seal on front load washer whirlpool

Q: How much does it cost to replace the rubber seal on a front load washer?

Youll likely pay around $230 to $300 to repair or replace the rubber seal of a washer. A faulty seal will dump water all over your floor when you run your washer, so its important to replace it as soon as you notice any damage.

In order to keep a watertight seal, your front load washer comes equipped with a pliable rubber door gasket. Unfortunately, these seals, while good at keeping water in, are notorious for growing mold or mildew if not frequently cleaned. If your door seal has blackened beyond what cleaning can fix or is old and damaged, it can be replaced.

Start this repair by unplugging your washer and disconnecting it from the water. This is for safety and because you may require quite a bit of disassembly to get to the door gasket. Once done, you will want to consult your owner’s manual to ascertain how to remove the front of your washer. It is different on many models, but in most cases, you will need to unthread the screws that secure the door, remove that, then either remove the top of the washer first or move on to removing the front panel. In models where you cannot remove the front, you will have to work in the area immediately around the door seal.

Once you have access to the seal, start by peeling back the sides and removing the retaining band around the exterior. Now you will be able to peel the seal itself away from the washer. Be sure to go slowly and inspect if your washer has any clips that need to be released as you go.

Before installing the new seal, clean the area underneath the old seal thoroughly and let dry. Your new door gasket will come with either lubricant or sealant that will need to be applied as per directions. When lining up the new door gasket, be sure to line the drain holes up with the actual drain in the door. Once the retaining band is back on, flip the seal lips over it and you can begin reassembly.

Here is a quick example from Fred’s Appliance Academy of replacing a bellow on a Frigidaire Front Load Washer.

Front loading washing machines experience frequent movement between the rubber door boot seal and the drum. Constant movement coupled with changing water temperatures between the wash and rinse cycle stresses the rubber to the point where it becomes cracked and perishes after extended use. If you have basic skills and you notice water oozing out from the front of your the Whirlpool Duet model GHW9150PWO front load washing machine, save the cost of a service call by replacing the seal yourself.

Unplug the washing machine’s power cord before attempting repairs. If the wall socket is inaccessible, trip the relevant breaker switch on your electrical panel and stick a strip of masking tape over the switch to prevent someone else inadvertently restoring power while you’re working.
Undo the two screws securing the lower front access panel with a Torx head screwdriver. Slide the panel down and out, and set it aside.
Remove the three Torx head screws securing the rear lip of top panel to the back of the machine and pull the top off the machine.
Grip the top inside edge of the trim ring surrounding the door and the control panel. Ease the top of the trim ring forward to unclip the tabs securing it to the control panel. Once the top is loose, work your way around the door opening to unclip the rest of the tabs, then put the trim ring aside.
Pull out the dispenser drawer, depress the locking tab at the back and remove the drawer. Then remove the two screws on each side of the dispenser housing securing the control panel to the front.
Insert a small flat head screwdriver in the joint between the control panel and the front panel to pry the control panel away from the front, working your way across the top surface. Remove the control panel and place it on top of the machine without disconnecting any wires.
Open the door and locate the small wire loop close to the bottom of the door boot seal. Insert the small screwdriver into the loop and pull the spring-loaded ring clamp out from around the face of the boot seal. Pull the seal off the lip surrounding the door opening and push the seal inside the opening.
Remove the front door panel by undoing the two screws on the bottom corner tabs, followed by the two screws on the top corner tabs. Pull the panel down and away from the cabinet. Disconnect the three latch assembly wire connectors by pulling them out of their sockets on the right side of the door panel, and then set the panel aside.
Locate the flat nylon dispenser tube leading from the top left corner to the upper left of the boot seal, and pull the end of the dispenser tube out of the opening in the boot seal.
Use a Phillips head screwdriver to loosen the screw on the flat hooped clamp securing the boot seal to the tub; you’ll find the clamp screw on the right side of the boot seal. Remove the clamp and pull the old boot seal off the lip surrounding the tub.
Hold the new boot seal against the opening with the tab on the outside rim pointing upwards. Push the seal’s grooved edge over the lip of the tub. Continue feeding the rest of the grooved edge over the lip while working your way around the opening. After finishing, inspect the seal to ensure that it’s set smoothly around the tub without any bulges or wrinkles.
Position the flat hooped clamp over the boot seal with the clamp screw on the right, and tighten the clamp securely. Then insert the end of the dispenser tube into the opening on the upper left of the seal.
Place the door panel in front of the machine and reconnect the three latch assembly wires. Lift the panel and slide the upper corner tabs under the control panel bracket. Insert two upper mounting screws removed earlier followed by the bottom corner mounting screws, and tighten all four screws securely.
Open the door and work the rim of the new boot seal over the lip surrounding the door opening. Hold the spring clamp against the opening with the spring at the bottom. Loop the top of the clamp over the seal and then smooth the rest of the clamp into place by working your way to the bottom.
Close the door and reposition the control panel. Once the panel is lined up properly, push the top corners in until the panel locks into place. Then reinstall the screws on both sides of the dispenser housing and slide the dispenser drawer back into place.
Reposition the trim ring and line the top edge up with the control panel. Start at the top and push the sides of the trim ring in until you hear an audible click. Continue pushing inward around both sides until the trim ring is set flat against the front panel.
Align the lower access panel and lift it upward so that the upper lip slides behind the door panel. Insert the two mounting screws removed earlier and tighten them securely.
Lift the top panel back into place and reinstall the three screws securing the rear lip of the top panel to the back of the machine.
Plug the power cord back into the wall outlet, or reset the breaker switch, whichever is applicable, and run a full load of washing to ensure that the boot seal isn’t leaking.

How much does it cost to replace the rubber seal on a front load washer?

You'll likely pay around $230 to $300 to repair or replace the rubber seal of a washer. A faulty seal will dump water all over your floor when you run your washer, so it's important to replace it as soon as you notice any damage.

Can you replace the rubber seal in a front load washer?

If your door seal has blackened beyond what cleaning can fix or is old and damaged, it can be replaced. Start this repair by unplugging your washer and disconnecting it from the water. This is for safety and because you may require quite a bit of disassembly to get to the door gasket.