2005 jeep wrangler camshaft position sensor location

What is the actual Pxxxx code you are getting?

Welcome to the Forum, from Cave Creek AZ.

That is loss of can sensor signal, often you may also get P0344 which is intermittent signal loss. In either case you are thrown into limp mode which limits the RPMs as you are getting.

It is important to properly gap the sensor’s air gap when replacing the sensor. Here is the spec & process from the FSM. Whatever you do, do not let the sensor hit the tone wheel behind the cam sprocket. It is sheet metal & if bent almost impossible to find a replacement.

OPERATION - 2.4L

The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) sensor contains
a hall effect device referred to as a sync signal
generator. A rotating target wheel (tonewheel) for the
CMP is located behind the exhaust valve-camshaft
drive gear (Fig. 6). The target wheel is equipped with
a cutout (notch) around 180 degrees of the wheel.
The CMP detects this cutout every 180 degrees of
camshaft gear rotation. Its signal is used in conjunction
with the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) to
differentiate between fuel injection and spark events.
It is also used to synchronize the fuel injectors with
their respective cylinders.
When the leading edge of the target wheel cutout
enters the tip of the CMP, the interruption of magnetic
field causes the voltage to switch high, resulting
in a sync signal of approximately 5 volts.
When the trailing edge of the target wheel cutout
leaves the tip of the CMP, the change of the magnetic
field causes the sync signal voltage to switch low to 0
volts.

REMOVAL - 2.4L
The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) on the 2.4L
4–cylinder engine is bolted to the right-front side of
the cylinder head (Fig. 7). Sensor position (depth) is
adjustable.
(1) Disconnect electrical connector at CMP sensor.
(2) Remove 2 sensor mounting bolts.
(3) Remove sensor from cylinder head by sliding
towards rear of engine.

INSTALLATION - 2.4L
The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) on the 2.4L
4–cylinder engine is bolted to the right-front side of
the cylinder head. Sensor position (depth) is
adjustable.
(1) Remove plastic, upper timing belt cover (timing
gear cover) (Fig. 8) by removing 3 bolts. Before
attempting to remove cover, remove electrical connec-
tor from Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor
(Fig. 8). This will prevent damage to sensor.
(2) Rotate (bump over) engine until camshaft timing
gear and target wheel (tonewheel) are positioned
and aligned to face of sensor as shown in (Fig. 9). If
not positioned as shown in (Fig. 9), damage to
both sensor and target wheel will occur when
attempting to start engine. Face of sensor
MUST be behind target wheel while adjusting.
(3) Position sensor to cylinder head and install 2
sensor mounting bolts finger tight.
(4) SENSOR AIR GAP: .030” Set air gap between
rear of target wheel and face of sensor to .030”. This
can best be accomplished using an L-shaped, wiretype
spark plug gapping gauge (Fig. 10). A piece of
.030” brass shim stock may also be used.
(5) Gently push sensor forward until it contacts
gapping gauge. Do not push hard on sensor.
Tighten 2 sensor mounting bolts. Refer to torque
specifications.
CAUTION: After tightening sensor mounting bolts,
recheck air gap and adjust as necessary. Retorque
bolts.
(6) Install upper timing belt cover and 3 bolts.
(7) Connect electrical connector to ECT sensor.
(8) Connect electrical connector to CMP sensor.

Sensor signal loss may be from a wiring problem too.

On the 4.0L (completely different setup) there is a known problem with replacement sensors not being up to the original factory specs & known to throw the P0340 & P0344 codes. I have not seen that problem with the 2.4s so hopefully that is not what is happening here.

It is also important to not run a store brand sensor like that. Store brand sensors are notorious (!) for causing problems.

Welcome to the Forum, from Cave Creek AZ.

Thanks, glad to be here.

That is loss of can sensor signal, often you may also get P0344 which is intermittent signal loss. In either case you are thrown into limp mode which limits the RPMs as you are getting.

It is important to properly gap the sensor’s air gap when replacing the sensor. Here is the spec & process from the FSM. Whatever you do, do not let the sensor hit the tone wheel behind the cam sprocket. It is sheet metal & if bent almost impossible to find a replacement.

OPERATION - 2.4L

The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) sensor contains
a hall effect device referred to as a sync signal
generator. A rotating target wheel (tonewheel) for the
CMP is located behind the exhaust valve-camshaft
drive gear (Fig. 6). The target wheel is equipped with
a cutout (notch) around 180 degrees of the wheel.
The CMP detects this cutout every 180 degrees of
camshaft gear rotation. Its signal is used in conjunction
with the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) to
differentiate between fuel injection and spark events.
It is also used to synchronize the fuel injectors with
their respective cylinders.
When the leading edge of the target wheel cutout
enters the tip of the CMP, the interruption of magnetic
field causes the voltage to switch high, resulting
in a sync signal of approximately 5 volts.
When the trailing edge of the target wheel cutout
leaves the tip of the CMP, the change of the magnetic
field causes the sync signal voltage to switch low to 0
volts.

REMOVAL - 2.4L
The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) on the 2.4L
4–cylinder engine is bolted to the right-front side of
the cylinder head (Fig. 7). Sensor position (depth) is
adjustable.
(1) Disconnect electrical connector at CMP sensor.
(2) Remove 2 sensor mounting bolts.
(3) Remove sensor from cylinder head by sliding
towards rear of engine.

INSTALLATION - 2.4L
The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) on the 2.4L
4–cylinder engine is bolted to the right-front side of
the cylinder head. Sensor position (depth) is
adjustable.
(1) Remove plastic, upper timing belt cover (timing
gear cover) (Fig. 8) by removing 3 bolts. Before
attempting to remove cover, remove electrical connec-
tor from Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor
(Fig. 8). This will prevent damage to sensor.
(2) Rotate (bump over) engine until camshaft timing
gear and target wheel (tonewheel) are positioned
and aligned to face of sensor as shown in (Fig. 9). If
not positioned as shown in (Fig. 9), damage to
both sensor and target wheel will occur when
attempting to start engine. Face of sensor
MUST be behind target wheel while adjusting.
(3) Position sensor to cylinder head and install 2
sensor mounting bolts finger tight.
(4) SENSOR AIR GAP: .030” Set air gap between
rear of target wheel and face of sensor to .030”. This
can best be accomplished using an L-shaped, wiretype
spark plug gapping gauge (Fig. 10). A piece of
.030” brass shim stock may also be used.
(5) Gently push sensor forward until it contacts
gapping gauge. Do not push hard on sensor.
Tighten 2 sensor mounting bolts. Refer to torque
specifications.
CAUTION: After tightening sensor mounting bolts,
recheck air gap and adjust as necessary. Retorque
bolts.
(6) Install upper timing belt cover and 3 bolts.
(7) Connect electrical connector to ECT sensor.
(8) Connect electrical connector to CMP sensor. View attachment 4530125

Sensor signal loss may be from a wiring problem too.

On the 4.0L (completely different setup) there is a known problem with replacement sensors not being up to the original factory specs & known to throw the P0340 & P0344 codes. I have not seen that problem with the 2.4s so hopefully that is not what is happening here.

Thank for the info. I believe I read this from another fpst you put up. I followed the directions and gapped as per specifications. It worked fine once I started the jeep, but as soon as I got over 3100 RPM, the check engine light came on and the sputtering happened again.

Do you know if the PO had replaced the sensor? It is very common to replace parts after getting a code so that person may have tried it (as you did) but if so that obviously did not fix it & now it is on you to figure it out.

If that is the case you now have had 2 new sensors without success & I’m guessing both are of the aftermarket variety. As Jerry pointed out above these Jeeps do not like non OEM sensors. If they are still available from the dealer (probably not) you might try getting one from them. In the case of cam sensors for the 4.0s the sensors the dealers have had are of the same poor quality as aftermarket so even a dealer sensor is not a guarantee of OEM quality.

Not knowing the history as to what may have led to getting the code & exactly what was done trying to correct it leaves you at a disadvantage. I do know that original sensors rarely fail & usually a code is the PCM telling you the sensor is seeing & reporting a problem, not necessarily causing the problem.

So starting from scratch with only the info you know & have provided specifically that the code/limp mode happens every time after reset & the light does not come on until you hit that RPM it does seem like it may be a sensor problem.

So, next questions. After getting the CEL (light) & limp mode I assume the light stays on so what happens if you shut it down, then restart it? Is the CEL still on & does it start right up or do you have to crank it for several seconds before it starts?

Do you know if the PO had replaced the sensor? It is very common to replace parts after getting a code so that person may have tried it (as you did) but if so that obviously did not fix it & now it is on you to figure it out.

If that is the case you now have had 2 new sensors without success & I’m guessing both are of the aftermarket variety. As Jerry pointed out above these Jeeps do not like non OEM sensors. If they are still available from the dealer (probably not) you might try getting one from them. In the case of cam sensors for the 4.0s the sensors the dealers have had are of the same poor quality as aftermarket so even a dealer sensor is not a guarantee of OEM quality.

Not knowing the history as to what may have led to getting the code & exactly what was done trying to correct it leaves you at a disadvantage. I do know that original sensors rarely fail & usually a code is the PCM telling you the sensor is seeing & reporting a problem, not necessarily causing the problem.

So starting from scratch with only the info you know & have provided specifically that the code/limp mode happens every time after reset & the light does not come on until you hit that RPM it does seem like it may be a sensor problem.

So, next questions. After getting the CEL (light) & limp mode I assume the light stays on so what happens if you shut it down, then restart it? Is the CEL still on & does it start right up or do you have to crank it for several seconds before it starts?

The PO did not replace the sensor. The jeep was sold to another, who I bought it from, and he did not troubleshoot the issue. He was planning on using it for a project that never happened. The previous owner said he noticed the check engine light, but did not check it out. I ordered and replaced the sensor hoping this would fix the issue. The jeep will start every time, and runs very well until the 3100+ RPM range. If you stay below this, there are no issues at all, except from the check engine light being lit up.

Thanks for the help. It's very much appreciated.

So do you still have what is hopefully the original sensor? If so keep it. In fact since the replacement on did nothing to improve things you may want to put it back in.

To be clear, does the CEL come back on at restart but not go into limp mode until reaching the RPM limit?

And even with the CEL on, it starts right up, no long cranking?

So do you still have what is hopefully the original sensor? If so keep it. In fact since the replacement on did nothing to improve things you may want to put it back in.

To be clear, does the CEL come back on at restart but not go into limp mode until reaching the RPM limit?

And even with the CEL on, it starts right up, no long cranking?

So do you still have what is hopefully the original sensor? If so keep it. In fact since the replacement on did nothing to improve things you may want to put it back in.

To be clear, does the CEL come back on at restart but not go into limp mode until reaching the RPM limit?

And even with the CEL on, it starts right up, no long cranking?

Good advice. I will put the original back in. Once I put the new sensor in, there is no check engine light until I go above the 3100+ RPM range. The light then comes on and it begins sputtering again. Under this RPM range, all is good.

It stays on after restart (without resetting) or off until limp mode at RPMs?

Always P0340, right?

It stays on after restart (without resetting) or off until limp mode at RPMs?

Always P0340, right?

Yep that's the code. Yes the check engine light stays on always.

I will have to do some research but seem to recall that this code sets differently than most & would set as you describe. After reset you would not get the CEL even if you lose the signal even though you would go into limp mode. I think even after limp mode no CEL until the next start up. Then you have the CEL even if you are getting a signal (at restart) which I think you are since you do not have the long crank time associated with having no signal. Once you later lose signal (at the magic RPM) you are back into limp mode. And the process repeats.

If correct so far, it looks like you are definitely losing the signal after start up which means it seems to indicate something while running is causing the signal loss & apparently RPM related. If there is total signal loss at start up as the P0340 suggests it will normally only start after a longer than normal cranking time. More often with what appears to be a intermittent issue you would get a P0344 code which is for intermittent signal loss.

The issue of bad sensors for the 4.0s often results in getting both P0340 & P0344 codes, the 340 causing the long cranks & the 344 coming when driving often either temperature or RPM related. That has mostly been found to be caused by sensor pulse width/dwell time being out of tolerance with the built in PCM specifications & is seen in the “faulty” sensors available now. Unfortunately this is only seen using a 2 channel scope where you can see both crank & cam signals (pulses) at the same time & compare to known good sensors.

If it is actually only RPM caused it would seem to rule out a wiring problem & be either a sensor or PCM issue. The PCM seems less likely but after 2 sensors it is also hard to call it a sensor issue. Very confusing…

It is confusing indeed. I took the jeep for a drive this evening, and with the check engine light still on, I surpassed the 3100+ RPM range, with no limp mode issues at all. I purposely drove it, revving it above this point and it was working perfectly. I stopped to run an errand, and when I started away again it was back. I don't think there is anything worse than intermittent problems. Thanks again for your time and help.

I think the light was on (during the good trip) from having the parameters set (signal loss) on the previous start/running with limp.

When it “was back” after the good run was the CEL on at start up or did it just go into limp at the magic RPMs? Then presumably back on the next start?

Still looking for more info on when the CEL comes on relative to the signal loss.