2011 chrysler 200 2.4 crankshaft position sensor location

Ok so my check engine came on my Chrysler 200 limited 2.4 said to replace crankshaft sensor so i did then someone said it should do the cam so i did in-between this broke the connector to cam sensor so replaced it we have relearned the system but my car is still doing the same thing someone please help me

Welcome to the forums. Which P-code did you get? There could be 2 or 3 possible cam/crank position sensor codes.
A fault code will never tell you to replace a part, it only tells you what circuit the problem is in. It may or may not be the part itself. You will need to diagnose the problem from a list of Possible Causes and repair it.
What year is this car?

Welcome to the forums. Which P-code did you get? There could be 2 or 3 possible cam/crank position sensor codes.
A fault code will never tell you to replace a part, it only tells you what circuit the problem is in. It may or may not be the part itself. You will need to diagnose the problem from a list of Possible Causes and repair it.
What year is this car?

It's a2012

Is it stalling or misfiring? Is the fault code P0335 or P0339? Did the new sensors make any difference?
There were some suspect sensors (see attached). Were the replacement sensors OEM (not necessarily Mopar)?
The TSB # 18-080-16 doesn't address any cam/crank sensor issues, but it may improve driving quality.

Is it stalling or misfiring? Is the fault code P0335 or P0339? Did the new sensors make any difference?
There were some suspect sensors (see attached). Were the replacement sensors OEM (not necessarily Mopar)?
The TSB # 18-080-16 doesn't address any cam/crank sensor issues, but it may improve driving quality.

Okay hello so sorry for the delay. Okay hi so I'm sorry for the delay in my response but I've been trying to do this for this long that's how long it's taking me and

Okay hello so sorry for the delay. Okay hi so I'm sorry for the delay in my response but I've been trying to do this for this long that's how long it's taking me and

But I'm I still been trying to work on this and my car is I'm still doing the same thing and now it it's it's really jerking a little bit and then it shut off on the freeway until I pulled over to my check engine light flashing and it said that I had the airflow amount in the throttle body to check in with myself I took the throttle body off and cleaned it and thought it would tell the performance difference in it actually but then he continue to do the same thing so I'm at a loss I was going to go replace my throttle body because that's how I think I can see your I don't know what else to fight you with it because I still doing the same thing and I tried to have it relearn but technician that came out to have it we learned he popped up and told me that he could return it because my ABS control module is going out which I'm like what does that have to do with what's going on with the car so now I've had numerous people tell me that there's no way that's that could be the issue so so now it's still continuing to do the same thing and my check engine light starts flashing so that it was throttle body situation again and so I put the reader on it today and today it says I'm crazy p0365 p0315 P0300 P0301 p0302 9 P0340 p2172 so I don't know what to do so now you recommendation i was going to replace throttle body thinking possible sensor i have performed the pump reprogram as my reader doesn't allow

What is the age and condition of the battery? Chryslers do not tolerate low voltage conditions and will exhibit a bit of weirdness. Check the battery connections for corrosion as well.

A healthy battery with clean, tight connections and grounds is very important. A battery test should be done before any tune-up or when things start to get weird as ggoose states.
I took the list of your fault codes and took some out, as they were redundant or part of other fault codes. Simplifying things is a good step in getting the list even smaller so we can narrow down the Possible Causes and nail the culprit.
Just one of these fault codes may be causing all the other fault codes and is, in fact your whole problem. Two things can go bad at once, but that is rare.
Always diagnose first.

P0315 is a crankshaft position sensor that hasn't been 'learned'. It has to be 'taught' correct crankshaft position before it can accurately tell where the crank is. If the sensor loses sight of where the crank is, the camshaft positions (P0340 and P0365) are invalid.
This may be your whole problem. It is where we have to start anyways. It should learn where it is during a drive. If the signal is sporadic or jumping around, it can't learn. I suspect a wiring or connector issue if it doesn't take the learn:

P0300 is a Multiple cylinder misfire which means that the computer (PCM) sees all 4 cylinders misfiring instead of specific cylinders. We can take P0301 and P0302 off the list right away as P0301 is a #1 cylinder misfire and P0302 is a #2 cylinder misfire. We already know that all cylinders misfire, so these specific cylinder faults aren't needed.

P0340 is a camshaft position sensor malfunction. The 2.4L has 2 cams, an intake and exhaust cam. The computer has to know where each one is as they rotate. P0365 is specifically the intake cam. P0340 is generally both cams and is the generic cam code. The VVT can move the cams around with oil pressure (advance & retard). Correct oil level and viscosity are very important. Is the oil OK? It should be a 5W-20 meeting Chrysler MS-6395.
We can toss out P0365 for now and get back to it later if we need to. If P0315 is till present, that has to be cured first.

P2172 is a big vacuum leak or air flow that happened briefly (not cumulative or gradual). It could have been during testing by removing a vacuum hose while the engine was running? It may have happened during an engine stall. See the bulletin below on a possible cracked PCV hose.

What is the age and condition of the battery? Chryslers do not tolerate low voltage conditions and will exhibit a bit of weirdness. Check the battery connections for corrosion as well.

I just got battery and terminals are good

Welcome to the forums. Which P-code did you get? There could be 2 or 3 possible cam/crank position sensor codes.
A fault code will never tell you to replace a part, it only tells you what circuit the problem is in. It may or may not be the part itself. You will need to diagnose the problem from a list of Possible Causes and repair it.
What year is this car?

Ok its 2012 so this is what I've done from original engine light went on I've changed 3. Sensors 2 cam and 1 crank 3 times as matter fact because j didn't know about the relearn when k got told about the relearn I call a mobile .mechanic to come with his nice obd reader he cane tfyd gk do the relearn well his nice old reader said my abs control module was going bad and his reader couldn't relearn because if im at loss there because mot getting what one has to do with issue so he said check ur speed sensor I took off and cleaned them then whe on fwy my car started jerking bad and check engine light started flashing I pull over aware that's not good waited hour then went 2 mikes hone got old reader out it stated excessive air flow in throttle body next night j the my throttle body off clean it real nice put it back on no more flashing check engine light couple days later car does the same so I spray throttle body cleaner in without taking it off now all the while my car is herking randomly shutting off is trying to stall out when I hoet to stop sign won't go over 70 and my crusr control won't work I was thinking to replace throttle body buy its expensive im single mom not working so I'm doing this my self I can't even go less than mile in morning to get kids to school before kg shuts off .I just don't know what to do

Ok its 2012 so this is what I've done from original engine light went on I've changed 3. Sensors 2 cam and 1 crank 3 times as matter fact because j didn't know about the relearn when k got told about the relearn I call a mobile .mechanic to come with his nice obd reader he cane tfyd gk do the relearn well his nice old reader said my abs control module was going bad and his reader couldn't relearn because if im at loss there because mot getting what one has to do with issue so he said check ur speed sensor I took off and cleaned them then whe on fwy my car started jerking bad and check engine light started flashing I pull over aware that's not good waited hour then went 2 mikes hone got old reader out it stated excessive air flow in throttle body next night j the my throttle body off clean it real nice put it back on no more flashing check engine light couple days later car does the same so I spray throttle body cleaner in without taking it off now all the while my car is herking randomly shutting off is trying to stall out when I hoet to stop sign won't go over 70 and my crusr control won't work I was thinking to replace throttle body buy its expensive im single mom not working so I'm doing this my self I can't even go less than mile in morning to get kids to school before kg shuts off .I just don't know what to do

Oh and my oil was pretty dirty so 2 days ago I got under and changed my oil put a k and n filter in someone said it was good so I totally felt the diffrance with oil change but still bogging still stalling out still driving me nuts

Oh and my oil was pretty dirty so 2 days ago I got under and changed my oil put a k and n filter in someone said it was good so I totally felt the diffrance with oil change but still bogging still stalling out still driving me nuts

I'm sorry also I cannot afford to have pcm update so I don't know if there's something else I can do

Please stop replacing parts.
The air flow fault may have been the result of (not the cause of) the poor running, jerking and stall. Let's disregard that P2172 code for now.
The PCM update provides some improvements, but doesn't address any of the issues you have now. Disregard the update for now (unless they offer to do it under the minimum charge while their scan tool is plugged into the car).

It is important not to drive the car with the 'ck eng' light flashing. It only flashes when continued operation could damage the catalytic converter. We don't want to make the problem worse.

It is important to solve the P0315 first. If the crank sensor isn't taught it's position, no other tests are valid. You have to start with relearning the crankshaft position sensor (see post #8). You may have another problem after this, but this is where you have to start.

A competent shop or dealer service dept is your best bet. The dealer has the scan tool, training and resources to fix Chrysler cars. They do it every day.
A diagnostic fee is usually the minimum charge. It is basically 1 hour labor ($100-$125?). It can vary by dealer and location.
If they can fix it for the minimum charge, they just go ahead and fix it. If it looks like it will go over the charge, they will stop and contact you with an estimate for your authorization. At this point you can have them complete the work or stop there with the diagnosis. Always diagnose first.

The car has to be fixed. You shouldn't really drive it the way it is. You don't to damage the catalyst or have the car strand you.

Let us know what they find if it is more than a relearn. Best of luck to you.

Ok so my check engine came on my Chrysler 200 limited 2.4 said to replace crankshaft sensor so i did then someone said it should do the cam so i did in-between this broke the connector to cam sensor so replaced it we have relearned the system but my car is still doing the same thing someone please help me

So my car’s check engine also came on this week. Message- performance shifting not available, code was for transmission- got transmission rebuilt and now there is a code again for camshaft. Problem is when i drive the car, engine light comes on anytime and gear shift to 3rd and stuck there. Please help if anybody had the same issue!

So my car’s check engine also came on this week. Message- performance shifting not available, code was for transmission- got transmission rebuilt and now there is a code again for camshaft. Problem is when i drive the car, engine light comes on anytime and gear shift to 3rd and stuck there. Please help if anybody had the same issue!

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Ok so my check engine came on my Chrysler 200 limited 2.4 said to replace crankshaft sensor so i did then someone said it should do the cam so i did in-between this broke the connector to cam sensor so replaced it we have relearned the system but my car is still doing the same thing someone please help me

Are you still having that issue?

Welcome to the forums. What year and engine? What is the actual fault code? It may start with a 'P'.
The OP was last logged in 3 months ago. I have sent them a message.

Ok so my check engine came on my Chrysler 200 limited 2.4 said to replace crankshaft sensor so i did then someone said it should do the cam so i did in-between this broke the connector to cam sensor so replaced it we have relearned the system but my car is still doing the same thing someone please help me

This literally just happened to me 2 days ago. Replace the sensor and it wouldn't even turn over. My buddy that has a machine shop was working on it for me and he looked at the wires, and sure enough the hose that in cases them was all stuck to the muffler I think? Stuck somewhere, and was all frazzled and f'd up. He went to the junkyard and got me the port where the wires go in (forgive my terminology, or lack thereof) and that made all the difference. Works like a dream and has been driving smoother than ever.

Best of luck! 🤞🏽