Join our new Facebook group: DIY Road Cases Connections Show
Connect with other builders and share tips, ideas and your builds. Join this group for exclusive deals and offers which will only be available to group members. Tutorial: General flight case assembly instructionsStep-by-step instructions - Step 1: before you startOK, so you decided to make your own tailored flight case. But what parts and tools do you need for this exactly, and how should you start on it? These step-by-step instructions will help you to successfully build your very own flight case.
Choosing the wood First up: will you work with real flight case wood (with a hard, black protective layer) or will you be OK with just normal wood that you’ll spray or paint black yourself? Spraying will probably end up being a bit cheaper in most cases (although this depends on the kind of paint you choose), but real flight case wood is clearly much better in terms of scratch and shock resistance. And it’s also the only option if you want a flight case that looks really professional. It’s up to you, of course. I’ve seen very nice self-sprayed flight cases (I know, I’m not talking in favour of my own case here), but if your flight case is regularly on the road, you may have to opt for real flight case wood anyway, as this’ll last you for many years. If you choose normal wood, you’ll find that in any DIY shop without a problem. For example 10 mm plywood. Some shops don’t sell this, but have 9, 12 or 15 mm, for instance. What thickness you choose all depends on what your flight case is for, but most often 10 mm will be strong enough. Careful though: at the moment, flightcase-brico.com has lid locations of 10 mm or 13 mm. If your wood is 9 or 12 mm, you can deal with this problem by sticking something under the lid location on the inside, like a thin piece of cardboard. I’ve chosen real flight case wood for my project. Plywood of 10 mm should definitely be strong enough for my 40kg loudspeaker. Case angles or case makers Then you have to choose whether you’re going to work with case angles or case makers. If you work with angles, you’ll make a wooden box first and then reinforce it by fitting aluminium case angles over the edges. If you work with case makers, you’ll slot the wood into the extrusions. The sides of the case won’t be fitted together, but indirectly attached to each other with the aid of case makers serving as the links between the wooden panels of your flight case. Tools Most things you need are everyday standard tools that average DIYers have at home or which they can go and borrow from friends, family or the neighbours if necessary. - wood saw Flight case parts Of course this depends in the first place on the type of case you’re after. In my case, I need: - flight case
wood Step-by-step instructions - Step 2: wooden boxThe easiest way of working - I find - is with the box method. This means we’ll build a (closed) wooden box first which we’ll saw in two (preferably with a fretsaw), so we end up with two pieces (that fit perfectly on top of each other!): the bottom of the flight case and the lid. How to do this exactly? First you measure the object you want to transport in your flight case. The loudspeaker for my project is 40 x 50 x 65.5 cm. But I also want to put a layer of 1.5 cm hard foam all around the inside to protect it, and I need half a centimetre extra everywhere, so the inside of my wooden box must measure 44 x 54 x 69.5 cm. As I’ll be working with the flight case wood on flightcase-brico.com (1 cm thick), the outside then has to measure 46 x 56 x 71.5 cm. In theory I can get cracking with this straightforward calculation, but it’s best if I take the lid location into account already, as this’ll be fitted in between the lid and the bottom of the flight case. It’ll take up about 1 cm. So if I don’t want to have to take off another centimetre later, after I’ve sawn my ‘box’ in two pieces, it’s best to deduct 1 cm now already. So the outside measurements of my box should be 46 x 55 x 71.5 cm.
Depending on the tool you’re using, it’s possible that very small pieces of ‘veneer’ will sometimes be chipped away on the line you’re sawing along. Don’t worry about it, because the case angles and lid locations will cover it up later anyhow. You have to do some truly awful sawing to cause any visible damage that these extrusions can’t cover up. I start with putting the first four upright panels together with carpenter’s glue (or other woodworking glue) and small nails. Some people prefer to use screws for this, but that isn’t easy, as the wood is only 10 mm thick. I find good glue the most important thing here. For the rest, small nails of e.g. 20 mm long, are enough. Alternatively you can use staples (if you have a staple gun), but definitely make sure, though, that the wood fits together properly everywhere and try to avoid banging the nails in crooked. The top and bottom of the case are glued and nailed on last. These two panels will make sure the whole box becomes a proper case with perfect right angles. So now you’ve got a box of 46 x 55 x 71.5 cm. At this stage it’s best to wait for the glue to dry before you saw it in two.
However, I have to be careful where exactly I saw the case in two, because I still have to leave enough space on the small part to fit my case angle and part of the butterfly latch, preferably without having the two overlap as well. Because a carpenter’s pencil doesn’t write that well on the somewhat rough surface of the flight case wood, I’m using a bit of masking tape, which you can find in any DIY shop, to mark the line I’m going to saw along. It’s great, because it’s also easy to remove without leaving traces of glue behind. Before I can start sawing, I drill a hole with a wood drill on the line I’m going to saw, so I have a set-off point for my fretsaw. It doesn’t really matter where you make the hole. It’ll be covered by the lid location later anyway.
Step-by-step instructions - Step 3: lid locations
The most important thing when making lid locations is that they have to fit together properly in the corners. So measure and saw very carefully. Once you’ve sawn and fitted all eight pieces of lid location, you’re ready with step 2. You don’t really have to fix the lid locations yet, they’ll be fixed later with the corner braces in step 3. Photo one below shows the 8 lid locations when they’re ready. Photo two shows how the lid locations will be fixed later with the corner braces. Note: we won’t be fitting rivets in the centre of the lid locations, except where the corner braces are (and maybe where the butterfly latches, hinges or lid stays are). Step-by-step instructions - Step 4: case angles, corner braces and ball cornersSawing case angles is easier, but a bit more work, because you’ll need 16 pieces in total: 4 for the bottom edges of your flight case, 4 for the top, another 4 for the sides on the bottom and 4 for the sides on the top.
We’re going to fix the case angles straightaway. But before we can do this, we have to see if it’s necessary to slant the edges of your wooden case a little with sandpaper or a file, so the case angles will fit nice and snugly over the edge. We’ll use rivets to fix the case angles. You can choose how many, but the general rule is that there shouldn’t be more than 15 cm in between rivets. So maybe it’s best to measure and mark the spots for the rivets with a pencil on every piece of case angle. You don’t have to put rivets in the spots where we’re going to put the ball corners or the corner braces. First drill the holes for the rivets with an aluminium-wood drill (the drill bits in the flightcase-brico.com web shop are ideal for this). Drill through the aluminium and all through the wood. The case angles usually have three grooves on both sides. Usually the rivets are put into the third groove (the groove furthest away from the case edge).
To fix the lid locations, we’ll be putting the large corner braces over them, while also partly overlapping with the case angles on the sides. Because the inside corners of the braces are often a bit rounded, it’s best to round the corners of the lid locations a bit with sandpaper too. That way the corner braces will nicely fit over them. You can drill all the way through the holes in the corner brace that fit over the case angle and use rivets of 12.5 mm long. For the holes in the corner brace that fit over the lid location, drill through the outside of the aluminium lid location and through the wood, but not through the inside of the lid location. This way it’ll stay nicely intact on the inside. Use the short rivets (9.5 mm long) to fix. As a general rule, you could say: always use the long rivets of 12.5 mm, unless for fixing the lid locations, then use the short ones of 9.5 mm.
Step-by-step instructions - Step 5: butterfly latches, hinges and handles
First, measure and saw a piece of the right size out of the lid location. I’m using easy-to-remove masking tape to mark the outline, because it’s difficult to draw a line on the flight case wood with pencil. Once you’ve removed the bit of lid location, saw the remainder of the hole you need for the butterfly latch out of the case with a fretsaw. Drill a little hole first to get your blade through and away you go! Now you’ve made the hole, you can fit the part of the butterfly latch into it. Maybe round off the edges of the lid location with some sandpaper and the edges of the hole in the wood with a file as well. Make sure the butterfly latch isn’t perfectly level with the lid location, but about half a millimetre below it. First drill the two holes in your lid location - again, don’t drill these all the way through - fix these with short rivets. Then fix the other holes. You can drill these all the way through and use long rivets to fix.
If you’re building a flight case with one or more hinges and lid stays, now is the right moment to put these on. The principle is the same: don’t drill all the way through to the inside of the lid location and fix with short rivets; for the rest drill all the way through and fix with long rivets. It may be useful at this stage to have something to push the two halves of your case firmly together, like two lashing straps.
Step-by-step instructions - Step 6: wheelsThis flight case will be very heavy: the loudspeaker itself weighs 40 kg and adding the flight case itself to that will mean the whole thing will weigh well above 50 kg. So I’m definitely going to put wheels under it. You can choose either fixed or swivel castors. Swivel castors come in a braked or unbraked version. Most people opt for swivel castors, but I personally prefer to combine two swivel castors with two fixed ones, as I’m going to tip this particular flight case in the van. In my case, I’m going to fit the fixed castors on the side where the case will touch the floor when it’s tipped. With swivel castors I’ve always had the problem that the wheels end up hanging upside down and that always gives a little bump at the moment you want to put the case on its wheels again. But that’s just a matter of personal preference, of course.
The reason why we use extra wheel panels instead of just attaching the wheels straight to the bottom of the flight case has of course to do with the load capacity and strength of your case. We positively make sure the wheel panels continue to right under the case angles. Drill four holes and fix with sturdy nuts and bolts. Teenuts are even more professional. They’ll make sure you don’t lose any space on the inside of your case. Tips for wheels under your caseOh, yes, as I said in the beginning, I’m going to make two identical cases, because obviously I've got two loudspeakers. I’ll be able to tip both and then put them on top of each other with the stackable ball corners, but I also want to stack them the right way up (with the wheels on the bottom), so I can move them easily. Therefore I’m going to fit them with four castor dishes at the top as well. The 100mm-wide castors will fit in there perfectly, so I’ll be able to stack the cases that way too. Careful though: actually you should take this into account from the start when you’re determining the measurements of your flight case, because castor dishes tend to stick out about 20 mm on the inside. Tadaaa, the wheels and castor dishes are in place. And this is the result. So now we’ve only got the inside of the case to do still. That’s the next and last step. Step-by-step instructions - Step 7: inside finish
Any questions? Don't hesitate to contact us! |