Quaker state full synthetic oil change interval

Greetings all, Hyundai recommends per the booklet Quaker State oil and am doing the first oil change myself and will follow the Severe Driving condition so 3,750. Question form the three screen shot which quaker state to go with? Normal, blend or full synthetic. I will be using OEM filter and crush washer.

Others have stated the Quaker State recommendation may be influenced by who gave Hyundai the most money. Dealership used Valvoline Premium Conventional for my first early oil change. At 3,750 I did my first oil change at home and used Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 with OEM filter. Very happy with the performance. I prefer Synthetic. Brand name does not matter that much as long as it meets the spec Hyundai lists in the manual. New oils, especially Synthetic ones will do better with heat and keeping engine clean. At least that is my experience. Bought on sale or after rebate Synthetic can be less or close to the cost of conventional or semi-synthetic.

Based on your choices I would go with the Synthetic and do the $7.00 rebate if it were mine:

Save Up To $7 Rebate Offer | United States

Didn't know about this rebate offer, been biased with Quaker State, been using it for like 60+ years, Pennsylvania Crude is some of the best, have no idea why Hyundai recommends it. Quaker State is the inventor of engine motor oils, and they don't advertise on TV like some other brands do without some really strange claims, like every 15K miles or once a year.

All have to meet SAE grade SN.

Key factor with synthetics is moisture immunity. Putting in CH, and NO in the engine, after firing forms H2O, water for short, with conventional, forms sludge. Of all the brands, QS appears to be the lowest cost, perhaps, because they don't advertise.

Just as an exercise, probably noticed a ton of insurance ads on TV, copied my insurance papers and emailed them to all those that advertise, like 15 minutes saves you 15% or save 300-500 bucks. Not one even came close to the rates I am paying with a company that doesn't advertise at all. The ones with the largest discounts, didn't even reply.

Also changed at 3750 miles, still can't get a straight answer on this, use to use break in oil and if changed to quick, will have an oil burner for life. Have no idea what Hyundai is putting in a new engine, but at this mileage was looking dark. Went around in circles on this issue, 7,500 miles, do a lot of highway driving, means 7,500 miles, so if you want to maintain your PT warranty, better follow this.

Okay with 7,500 same mileage as rotating tires, so do this all at once. So much for thread wear warranty, worthless, only thing you can prove is tire rotation, not wheel alignment, kind of roads you drive on, how you drive, etc. Never been able to file a claim yet. But certainly getting a no buy again list.

Well, if you are committed to QS go with the Ultimate Durability.
You did not state what your climate is or why you believe you are severe or what viscosity you will be using or what you are driving . really, at 3750 mile OCI in a non turbo non DI engine it really makes no difference.

Well, if you are committed to QS go with the Ultimate Durability.
You did not state what your climate is or why you believe you are severe or what viscosity you will be using or what you are driving . really, at 3750 mile OCI in a non turbo non DI engine it really makes no difference.

Sure makes a difference in all of my small engines and even in my air compressor plus my boat's outdrive.. You are not bringing up the sludge factor. This is all I use, synthetics. Ha, even my chain saw chain oil is a synthetic, chains last a lot longer.

So why not, my vehicles as well? Do cost a couple bucks more.

Sure makes a difference in all of my small engines and even in my air compressor plus my boat's outdrive.. You are not bringing up the sludge factor. This is all I use, synthetics. Ha, even my chain saw chain oil is a synthetic, chains last a lot longer.

So why not, my vehicles as well? Do cost a couple bucks more.

Very nice anecdotal evidence that synthetics will make ones engine outlive the rest of the vehicle with a 3750 mile OCI!

Very nice anecdotal evidence that synthetics will make ones engine outlive the rest of the vehicle with a 3750 mile OCI!

This is only for the very first oil change, after this its, 7499.999 miles or 364 days, 23 hours, 59 minutes, 59 seconds, whichever comes first.

Not sure about a leap year.

Well, if you are committed to QS go with the Ultimate Durability.
You did not state what your climate is or why you believe you are severe or what viscosity you will be using or what you are driving . really, at 3750 mile OCI in a non turbo non DI engine it really makes no difference.

Very nice anecdotal evidence that synthetics will make ones engine outlive the rest of the vehicle with a 3750 mile OCI!

I want to believe that. But, do not have a lot of experience with no problems using conventional oils for past 13 years. Synthetic oil would have been a better choice and ended with coking oil and oil burning engines. Some engine designs work better with synthetic oil. I just do not have enough experience with this engine to know what is best. But since I have 4 gallons of synthetic in the garage I will use first (maybe). I am on the fence with this one.

If you're set on Quaker State, I would second the idea of using their synthetic, Ultimate Durability. Synthetics are said to have a generic advantage in the way they coat and cling to parts after the engine is shut off and cools. Because their molecular structure is uniform and not varied like dino oil, synthetics form a stronger film. This protects the engine better during start up. Starting up may be a small portion of the engine's operating life, but is a large factor in its cumulative wear and tear. Also, over the oil change interval a conventional oil will change its flow characteristics much more than a synthetic oil. It thickens. Synthetic oil is far more stable in its viscosity properties and is free of parafins and mineral contaminants, stuff that precipitates out and forms sludge and varnish. Getting up to normal flow rate is important to engine protection, and so synthetic's initial film "cling" advantage extends its protective advantage as an oil change wears on. Very frequent changes with conventional will mitigate this disadvantage somewhat. But synthetics have a lower pour point. Not only does this give them great protective advantages over conventional in cold climates, but it also means they warm up and begin pumping normally through the engine quicker at any ambient temperature.

Conventional oil has only one advantage. It costs less. But if you change it very frequently to compensate for its technical disadvantages, that cost advantage gets eroded.

Modern conventional oils are no doubt better than they use to be, but they still have no technical advantage over synthetics. Whether this advantage will matter over the finite lifespan of a new car is impossible to say for certain. Four years ago, my mother bought a new Accent. She didn't drive it much, so I changed its oil according to the calendar -not the odometer- with synthetics. Mobil1 and Pennzoil Ultra. Then she got hit by a teenager who blew through a red light, and the immaculately maintained Accent was a total loss. It went to the junkyard with fewer than 10,000 miles on it. Was the synthetic oil worth it? Even a car with a more normal lifespan will often be done in by something that has nothing to do with the wear inside the engine.

I use synthetic oil in my Accent because I can afford to, so long as I'm the one doing the oil change.

Hope your mom is okay, same with us, driving a compact car, wife had two months of physical therapy and okay now, but still afraid to drive. Doesn't take too much to total a compact car with all these large SUV's and pickups on the road.

We did get high retail value and a refund on property taxes, one reason why we have a Limited today, but also paying 9 bucks extra a month for brand new vehicle replacement.

But don't know if this will ever happen again, so still stick with full synthetic. Just purchase to five quart bottles to take advantage of that Quaker State 7 buck per bottle rebate. But in pricing it against all the conventionals, was only two bucks more.

Have no idea why Hyundai shows that Quaker State label on the engine, and you are correct, any oil has to meet, SAE grade SN standards. Besides, Quaker State was $19.99 for a five quart bottle, Mobile One is $25.39 and if Hyundai is happy with Quaker State and Hyundai oil filters, will use this to keep them happy.

All it means is that Quaker State paid Hyundai for advertising. People who see that sticker will usually ask for Quaker State by name because they think Hyundai says that you should only use that.

I took mine to the dealer for its first oil change at 5200 miles. Now it has 10,100 on it and I will be changing it myself using either 5w20 or 5w30 Castrol Magnatec and Fram Ultra filters.

L8R,
Matt

Hope your mom is okay, same with us, driving a compact car, wife had two months of physical therapy and okay now, but still afraid to drive. Doesn't take too much to total a compact car with all these large SUV's and pickups on the road.

We did get high retail value and a refund on property taxes, one reason why we have a Limited today, but also paying 9 bucks extra a month for brand new vehicle replacement.

But don't know if this will ever happen again, so still stick with full synthetic. Just purchase to five quart bottles to take advantage of that Quaker State 7 buck per bottle rebate. But in pricing it against all the conventionals, was only two bucks more.

To me that is $2 well spent. I may never have a brand new vehicle again.

It may be overkill using synthetic oil in some respects. To me overkill beats under doing it any day of the week especially when it only costs $2. :smile:

MOBIL-1 for the WIN !!

Granted Hyundai specify in writing of recall instructions for Sonata recall engine replace to fill with Quaker State Full Synthetic,, I be a MOBIL-1 person myself

MOBIL-1 for the WIN !!

Granted Hyundai specify in writing of recall instructions for Sonata recall engine replace to fill with Quaker State Full Synthetic,, I be a MOBIL-1 person myself

Now, if you owned a 2017 Elantra SE would you use Mobil 1 even if you changed it every 3,750 for severe service? What about Mobil Super? Mobil says it is good for 5,000 miles?

You know these engines inside and out. Do you see any issues when conventional or semi-synthetic oil is used instead of synthetic? Thanks!

My mother was sore from hitting the steering wheel for a couple of weeks, but was not seriously hurt - thanks for asking. It was bad luck getting hit like that, but it could have been so much worse in so many ways. She was seriously shook up, though, and very scared of driving afterwards.

It took her weeks to get over the shock of the wreck, and when she finally decided she was going to buy a replacement she wanted a bigger car than before. So she stepped herself up to the Elantra. Not a really big step up in the size dept. IMO. (I thought she was headed for Sonata or something even bigger after her experience) But the Elantra definitely has a lot more comforts and safety features than the Accent, and yet it's still small enough she feels she can see out of it easily and control it.

I expect I will be changing the oil in this one too, and doing it by the calendar again instead of the odometer.

Now, if you owned a 2017 Elantra SE would you use Mobil 1 even if you changed it every 3,750 for severe service? What about Mobil Super? Mobil says it is good for 5,000 miles?

You know these engines inside and out. Do you see any issues when conventional or semi-synthetic oil is used instead of synthetic? Thanks!

Mobil-1 with 5000 intervals,, maybe 6-7000 if the car was a daily interstate car where it stay at speed and temp for good period of time to burn off crankcase moisture

City car where it "go to church on Sunday or grocery store,, do sooner

No experience with Mobil Super

I myself ran a Toyota 2.0 to 355,000 mile on plain Castrol GTX 5/30 with changes 3-5000 mile,, my cars are mostlu interstate daily to and from work

I work part time at a local lube shop and we have a few customers who've changed their oil at our shop since they bought their cars new. Some of them are at 350k and 430k. One guy just traded in his Dodge Grand Caravan for a new delivery van and it had 460k on the original engine/tranny. Most oils now are synthetic blends unless you buy it from Dollar General and the like. 3750 miles is more than fine on conventional oil. Where you really see the benefits of full synthetic is the higher mileage between changes. 5000-7500 changes. My 2010 Chrysler Sebring 2.4L has 160,300 miles on it and I have about 7100 miles since the last change. The oil level is only down to between the add and full lines, but I will still change it this weekend. The one thing to keep in mind is to make sure the air filter is always clean. A dirty/clogged air filter will lead to earlier engine wear than letting your oil change go too long.

L8R,
Matt

Ha, my 30's vehicles didn't have an air filter, then in the late 30's had to pour engine oil into the air cleaner, that was a mess that had to be cleaned, no cheaper solvent to use than gasoline.

Paper was a blessing when they came out in the 50's, one wing nut on the air cleaner, then with plastic, some had many screws and had to remove the duct work first. Hyundai is super simple, two snaps, lift it up and pull the old air filter out. Daughter paid dearly for a new air filter at her dealer, but then had a noise, took it back, they couldn't find anything wrong. I opened her hood, forgot to snap those two snaps, that got rid of that noise.

30's car didn't have an oil filter either, but had to replace it every 500 miles, in the late 30's clear up to the 50's had a steel canister with a screw down cap and a drain plug, new paper element was something like a quarter. Then the spin on oil filter came out, were kind of messy, still are.

In the early 2000's GM returned back to the plastic canister with paper element, like they invented it and to save the environment. But at the dealer, that piece of paper was like over ten bucks! And there is no drain on it, and a spin on was still a couple of bucks.

Back to the spin on with the Hyundai, would be nice if they had a canister like back in the 40's and only charged a buck for that piece of paper, is still kind of messy to replace that spin on.

Wife insisted I take our Chevy back to the dealer for an oil change, caught them charging me for a new filter, but not replacing it, so back to doing this myself. Tried to teach my youngest daughter how to check her air and cabin filter, so easy on these cars, but I think she takes after her mom.

Just some history on air and oil filters.