4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999) Visit the 4th Generation forum to ask specific questions or find out more about the 4th Generation Maxima. Show bank 1 sensor 1 (o2 sensor) location
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Join Date: Jun 2016 Posts: 9 bank 1 sensor 1 (o2 sensor) location 1998 nissan maxima - 201K miles - I've owned the car since 135K miles since 2011. I've been having issues with my car stalling when accelerating and when stopped/idling. Took it to the shop and they said to clean my throttle bodyand butterfly
valve so I went all out and dissasembled the and cleaned the EGR tube, IACV, TB and mass airflow sensor and replaced the intake boot not only did I get pissed off and try and force it off (I don't have a lift) and now I'll have to buy another part because it looks like I crushed the bank 2 sensor 1 because apparently the bank 1 sensor 1 is before the cat on the firewall side (I crushed the one before the cat but radiator side) The knock sensor is a tight fit but I just need to buy a universal joined for my ratchet so I can do that but If I can put it on jack stands I'll just use the sensor I have and replace the one I crushed. Any help is appreciated.
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Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Central AR Posts: 3,041 The Knock Sensor code that you been may have been seeing is what we call a "ghost code" that comes and goes with other codes. So there is a good chance that you may not be experiencing a problem with the KS after all. I've seen codes for O2 sensors and the evap control system throw the KS ghost code on more than one occasion. Did you get a check engine light (CEL) and get the codes read with a code reader that listed the KS code along with some other codes?
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Join Date: Jun 2016 Posts: 9 Quote: Originally Posted by CS_AR
The Knock Sensor code that you been may have been seeing is what we call a "ghost code" that comes and goes with other codes. So there is a good chance that you may not be experiencing a problem with the KS after all. I've seen codes for O2 sensors and the evap control system throw the KS ghost code on more than one occasion. Did you get a check engine light (CEL) and get the codes read with a code reader that listed the KS code along with some other codes? Yeah I've been getting that code since I got the car (the KS code) after I cleaned the EGR, IACV, TB/Butterfly valve the codes went away and I had the codes read again after they tripped aond got P0133 (o2 sensor) and P0325 (KS) but I had an amazon gift card so I thought I'd just replace it since all I need is an extension and UV joint for the socket and it's just one bolt (obviously I got a new o2 sensor) But after I crushed the O2 sensor that I believe is the bank 2 sensor 1 the problem became even worse. So maybe the silver lining is it really is the o2 sensor and now I can get this fixed once an for all. I don't know how to access the o2 sensor without being totally under the car - I have jack stands but no lift...
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Join Date: Aug 2000 Posts: 568 You can borrow an O2 Sensor socket from auto parts stores such as Autozone and Advance Auto. It makes the job a piece of cake. But, you will still have to have the car jacked up - but a lift is not necessary.
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Join Date: Jun 2016 Posts: 9 Quote: Originally Posted by Rit
You can borrow an O2 Sensor socket from auto parts stores such as Autozone and Advance Auto. It makes the job a piece of cake. But, you will still have to have the car jacked up - but a lift is not necessary. Do you have a manual or a schematic - I have conflicting information on which sensor is which. B1 S1 and B2 S1 are both before the cat but which one is which? also I took it for a test drive and realized I didn't reconnect the wires for the MAF sensor so I feel like a dolt. And if it's that easy (and I can't find a schematic) I'm taking it to the shop - I don't mind paying $100 for my local shop to do it - I like supporting local business and I'm tired of messing with it. I can catch up on my reading and save my energy for when I rebuild the front suspension/steering.
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Join Date: May 2008 Location: Hatfield, MA Posts: 1,312 Do you have a CA or FED emissions maxima? If FED then you have 2 upstream sensors located in the Y-pipe. If CA then you have 4 upstream sensors in the y-pipe before and after the pre-cats. Here is diagram Dennis posted earlier this year showing their locations. I found this diagram searching 'oxygen sensor location' within the 4th GEN forum. Quote: Originally Posted by DennisMik Back to your "no O2 sensor after the cat" question. If you have a California emissions car, there is no O2 sensor after the cat. Federal emissions cars had 3 O2 sensors total, 2 upstream sensors and 1 downstream sensor. The downstream sensor was located after the cat. California emissions cars had 4 O2 sensors total, 2 upstream sensors and 2 downstream sensors. The downstream sensors are located in the exhaust y-pipe right after each pre-cat. Those sensors can only be removed from the y-pipe from underneath. Their wired connectors are disconnected from the top. After raising the vehicle flood the sensors with PB blaster and wait until they get soaked. As mentioned the most convenient way to remove them is using the O2 sensor socket that you can rent or purchase at an autostore. Coat the new O2 sensor threads with antiseize to make removal easier if needed. If the O2 sensors won't budge with PB blaster the last resort
is to run the engine for several minutes to warm up the exhaust. I had to do that to get my OEM O2 removed after 110k miles. Take caution and wear protect clothing if this is needed.
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Join Date: Oct 2011 Posts: 77 Not sure what you mean by "crushed" the sensors, but if they are already damaged, no need to rent those o2 sockets. Just cut the wire at the sensor and use a deep 7/8 or 22 mm socket and 1/2 drive ratchet. You'll be able to get a better grip and hold using a full socket instead of those cutout for the sensor wires. Once you get the old one out, and new installed, use the old wiring as a guide to run the new sensor wire and attach them at the proper points up to the engine connector Last edited by dsonnylal; 04-06-2017 at 07:39 AM.
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Join Date: Jun 2016 Posts: 9 Quote: Originally Posted by jholley Do you have a CA or FED emissions maxima? If FED then you have 2 upstream sensors located in the Y-pipe. If CA then you have 4 upstream sensors in the y-pipe before and after the pre-cats. Here is diagram Dennis posted earlier this year showing their locations. I found this diagram searching 'oxygen sensor location' within the 4th GEN forum. Those sensors can only be removed from the y-pipe from underneath. Their wired connectors are disconnected from the top. After raising the vehicle flood the sensors with PB blaster and wait until they get soaked. As mentioned the most convenient way to remove them is using the O2 sensor socket that you can rent or purchase at an autostore. Coat the new O2 sensor threads with antiseize to make removal easier if needed. If the O2 sensors won't budge with PB blaster the last resort is to run the engine for several minutes to warm up the exhaust. I had to do that to get my OEM O2 removed after 110k miles. Take caution and wear protect clothing if this is needed.
This...is exactly what I needed. It's from texas I believe so it would be Fed emissions (and I live in Oklahoma where we laugh at emissions requirements - I just want my car to run great) Thanks for everyone for their replies. The diagram I used (I tried to attach it, dont know if it worked) had them mixed up (B1/B2) and after calling the different mechanics (some charging up to $450) I'm gonna go by some penetrating lubricant, another O2 sensor and some other odds and ends and just find some flat graound and use jack stands + car jack. I just hate getting under the car without a lift. Even with 2 - 3-ton jack stands + the car jack I never feel safe. So glad I came here. Attached Thumbnails
Last edited by jamesmark25; 04-06-2017 at 09:32 AM.
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Join Date: Jun 2016 Posts: 9 Update So I called local shops and they were going to charge anywhere from $100 - $450 so I decided to do it. Got the tool and it made it incredibly easy to remove . The Bank 2 sensor 1 is the one with the wrench teeth marks on it. Tried to remove the knock sensor but the UV joint I got for my socket was too big and couldn't get the angle right, however, I did clean out a freakin rats nest out from between the banks. Tons of acorns and material from the firewall. If anything I'm lucky they didn't eat any wiring. After a test drive it seemed to run amazing but had a few hiccups but never fully stalled (knock on wood) I'm thinking it's probably a vacuum leak but i've checked all the vacuum lines and can't find a leak so maybe it's time to rebuild the heads/intake. What do you all think?
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Join Date: May 2008 Location: Hatfield, MA Posts: 1,312 Congrats on getting those old O2 sensors replaced. If the air intake has never been cleaned you could have carbon buildup causing hesitation. Give the TB, IACV, UIM, and EGR tube a new look MAF, TB, IACV, and EGR cleaning for dummies Last edited by jholley; 04-06-2017 at 05:28 PM.
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Join Date: Jun 2016 Posts: 9 Quote: Originally Posted by jholley Congrats on getting those old O2 sensors replaced. If the air intake has never been cleaned you could have carbon buildup causing hesitation. Give the TB, IACV, UIM, and EGR tube a new look MAF, TB, IACV, and EGR cleaning for dummies Thanks for the reply, and yes, I noted in the Original post I first cleaned all the carbon out of the Butterfly valve/intake/TB, MAF, IACV as well as the ERG tube (I didn't get the valve itself) - perhaps its still the ERG valve. From what I understand I have to take off the intake manifold to get to it anyway so that's why I was thinking top end rebuild.
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Join Date: May 2008 Location: Hatfield, MA Posts: 1,312 Quote: Originally Posted by
jamesmark25 Thanks for the reply, and yes, I noted in the Original post I first cleaned all the carbon out of the Butterfly valve/intake/TB, MAF, IACV as well as the ERG tube (I didn't get the valve itself) - perhaps its still the ERG valve. From what I understand I have to take off the intake manifold to get to it anyway so that's why I was thinking top end rebuild. Give all hose reconnected vacuum hoses a check. If you or a friend smoke then give it a smoke test while the engine is running and watch for smoke getting sucked in. If not a smoker then spray carb cleaner around the hoses and gaskets with the engine running.
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Join Date: Jun 2016 Posts: 9 Quote: Originally Posted by jholley Give all hose reconnected vacuum hoses a check. If you or a friend smoke then give it a smoke test while the engine is running and watch for smoke getting sucked in. If not a smoker then spray carb cleaner around the hoses and gaskets with the engine running. Yeah, I cannot find a vacuum leak - I wasted a whole can of carb cleaner and using the vacuum diagram as a guide. I'm guessing that when I cleaned the IACV and the EGR tube all the cleaner I sprayed down there cleared it for a bit and now it's acting up. I took it for a longer test drive tonight and it is actually not much better at all. Seems choked (either fuel or air or both) when I took it on the highway. So now with the O2 sensors ruled out and the knock sensors and intake components ruled out as well I'm at a loss.
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Join Date: May 2003 Location: Jersey Posts: 3,434 yes the knock sensor code plagues a lot of these cars. I replaced mine twice years ago thinking that was the problem but the code never went away. I tried all sorts of different ways to get the code to go away. eventually i got a code for the o2 sensor and after replacing the o2 sensor the knock sensor code vanished
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Join Date: Jun 2015 Posts: 160 If you still have a vacuum leak check the EGR tube. Spray carb cleaner via a straw all around the egr tube. Did you replace the gasket? It is easy for the gasket to drop down after you get the first bolt in.
Is bank 1 sensor 1 upstream or down?Bank 1 Sensor 1 means Upstream Right/Rear;Bank 2 Sensor 1 means Upstream Left/Front;Bank 1 Sensor 2 means Downstream Right/Rear;Bank 2 Sensor 2 means Downstream Left/Front.
Where is the O2 sensor on bank 1?Bank 1 Sensor 1 Location
A vehicle's (bank 1, sensor 1) O2 sensor will be located ahead or upstream of the catalytic converter on the bank which corresponds to the engine's first cylinder. This is due to the fact that bank 1 is representative of an engine's #1 cylinder, while sensor 1 serves as an upstream designation.
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O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1 location nissan maxima
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