I'm hoping someone can identify an easy fix for this! Show
Husqvarna LTH 2042, hydrostratic about 8 yrs old, didn't have any problems last fall. When I started it for the first time this spring, the mower will not move F or R. I've checked the pull-lever in the back that switches it out of "gear" to allow it to free-wheel, and moving that doesn't affect anything. In fact, in either position, the mower can easily be pushed, as though it is stuck in the free-wheel position. the linkage on this lever is broken somewhere, though it appears to be intact up until the point it enters the transmission (on the right side of the transmission housing). Belts are good and I've observed the pulley on the transmission moving when mower is running, so it seems to be getting power. The engine does not seem to whine or have an increased load when I move the transmission shifter into F or R. Any ideas here? I suspect the "free-wheel" lever is not actuating inside the transmission, but not sure how much of a job it would be to get in there to repair. Thoughts? Chosen Solution
@jeff1 ,William, You did not state your model, so I will post some generic suggestions. Check the free wheeling lever at the rear of tractor is not engaged(1st link) and park brake off. Check to see the belt is still on and not broke/stretched and for worn pulley's. Check for hydro-static fluid leak or low fluid. Check clutch to see if it is engaging when you switch on, if not check battery condition as it needs good charged battery 12.4 +Volts to engage clutch normally, also could be bad wire/plug/switch for clutch, Control linkage out of adjustment, Internal pump damage. Check the 2nd link as you may be able to get your manual using your model # for more trouble shooting on your issue and suggestions. Good luck. I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pc5v9vB3... https://www.searspartsdirect.com/riding-...
It can be discouraging when your lawn mower stops moving and you don’t know what to do. You checked your air filter, fuel level, and engine oil, but chances are, that isn’t your problem because your engine still runs. I’ve seen many lawn mowers stop moving because of something as simple as a drive belt falling off, however it can be more complicated than this. A hydrostatic lawn mower may not move because of a bad drive belt; bad tensioner pulley; broken tensioner spring; old or low hydraulic fluid; hot hydraulic fluid; air in the hydraulic system; or the drive release handles being in the “released” position. I’ll share with you items to check in your hydraulic system along with some non-hydraulic system-related items that can also prevent your lawn mower from moving. This post may include affiliate links. Purchases made through these links may provide a commission for us, at no extra cost to you. As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases. Follow all safety instructions provided in your equipment operator’s manual prior to diagnosing, repairing, or operating. Consult a professional if you don’t have the skills, or knowledge or are not in the condition to perform the repair safely. Reasons Your Hydrostatic Mower Won’t Move or Go ForwardDrive Release Handle Not in Operating PositionHydrostatic mowers have a drive release so the mower can free roll. This is especially helpful when your mower has stopped working and you need to push the zero turn onto a trailer. In order to be able to move the mower forward, you must have these drive release handles in the “operating” position. The drive release can be in the form of a lever, push/pull button, or knob. Refer to your owner’s manual for the type of handle you have on your mower and where to locate it. Missing Key in AxleIf you have recently changed your tire on a riding lawn mower, you may have missed a small key that fell out of the axle. This key appears to be a small narrow bar and must be installed in order for the wheel to move. Not every mower has a key in the axle, but if yours does and it isn’t replaced, the mower won’t move. Drive or Pump Belt is Worn, Loose or BrokenCheck your drive belt to make sure it hasn’t fallen off and is positioned correctly on the pulleys. If the belt appears worn, cracked, or broken, you must replace the belt. Bad Tensioner PulleyTensioner Pulleys are often made from hard plastic with a bearing in the center. The pulley can break or the bearing can fail. Check your pulley and replace it if necessary. Keep the tensioner arm greased so it has some movement and does not seize up. Missing Idler Arm SpringThe idler spring places tension on the drive belt. Replace the spring if it is broken or has fallen out of your mower and is now missing. Low Hydraulic Fluid LevelA consistent hydraulic oil change at the intervals recommended by your manufacturer must be completed to keep your lawn mower transmission system running at its best. Running the transmission with old or low hydraulic oil can cause your lawn mower not to move or seem very weak while running. Again, change your hydraulic oil and filter(s) at the recommended intervals. Don’t forget many manufacturers have a “break-in” period when you are changing your hydro oil a little sooner for the initial oil change. When your hydraulic oil is low, add more hydro oil until the fluid level reaches the full level when your hydraulic oil is cool. It’s also a good idea to check for hydraulic fluid leaks. Note: some entry-level zero turns will have “non-serviceable” transmissions which mean the hydraulic systems are sealed and you are not able to change your hydraulic fluid. If you are having hydraulic issues, bring your mower into your servicing mower dealership for assistance. Hot Hydraulic FluidWhen you operate your lawn mower with bad hydraulic fluid or low fluid, the oil is not able to efficiently lubricate the hydraulic system causing increased friction and overheating of the hydraulic fluid. Hot hydraulic fluid can also result in more extensive damage. I highly recommend taking your lawn mower into your local repair dealership if you experience leaking from your hydraulic pump or your mower runs fine when it is cold, but stops running when it gets hot. Air in the Hydraulic SystemAfter changing hydraulic fluid, you must bleed all of the air out of the system. Air in the system can prevent your mower from moving. Air can be removed from the system in most lawn mowers by raising the rear drive tires off of the ground and allowing them to spin forward and backward until you don’t hear excessive noise while the wheels move at normal speeds. It is important to refer to your operator’s manual for correct procedures to remove air from your model lawn mower’s hydraulic system. Procedures not only can change from manufacturer to manufacturer but also from model to model. For example, my article on Changing Hydraulic Fluid in your Exmark Zero Turn shows slightly different instructions for two different models. If you don’t find the fault of your moving problems in your hydraulic system, you can check other items that can prevent the fuel and air required to run your engine. Definitely check out these items if your engine starts to sputter or shuts off so you are no longer able to drive.
To read more about items that can result in your mower stopping while mowing and how to fix them read my article “Reason Your Mower Stopped While Mowing”.
Lawn mower ownership doesn’t come without its frustrations. Own a lawn mower long enough, you are bound to run into many lawn mower problems including starting, smoking, leaking, cutting, and overheating. For a list of the most common lawn mower problems and items that can cause them, check out my guide “Common Lawn Mower Problems: Solved!“ Hydrostatic lawn mowers are susceptible to a number of problems common in all hydraulic systems. Due to their nature, they can happen at any time without warning. Some of the issues can come and go, leaving you even more confused. In this article, I’ll share what I’ve learned about troubleshooting different hydrostatic transmissions and give you the solutions to hopefully get them working again. Why Won’t My Hydrostatic Mower Move? (The Short Answer)You may find that there are a variety of problems preventing your mower from moving. For example, a problematic belt or pulley could be limiting the amount of power delivered to the hydro pump. There may be an issue with a lack of oil or an airlock in the system. Older units could be suffering from wear. Or, very simply, the hydro motor might be disengaged. Hydrostatic Mower Will Not Move – 6 Potential ReasonsLawn mowers with hydrostatic transmission can fall victim to several problems that result in a loss of drive. Let’s run through the issues you may encounter and diagnose what could be at fault. Hydrostatic Motors Have Been DisengagedThe first thing to always check when a hydrostatic mower will not move is if the transmission is engaged. At the lawn mower’s rear, you will find a release pin that allows you to disengage the transmission. This is a handy feature if you ever need to move the lawn mower without it running. For example, if you have run out of gas or it’s broken down. However, it’s not so handy when it’s disengaged without you knowing. Slipping Drive beltA bad drive belt is one of the main reasons your hydrostatic mower won’t move. The hydrostatic pump relies solely on power transfer from the belt. First, check the belt’s tension and ensure it’s in good condition. If you find it slack or in bad shape, you’ll have to replace it. Lack of OilThe transmission gets power by oil transferred from the pump to the motors. The system requires sufficient oil to create pressure. Once the oil level becomes low, it is replaced with air, providing no energy for the motors. Oil levels can be checked via the oil reservoir if you have one. Unfortunately, some manufacturers have closed systems without reservoirs. As a result, there is no way of checking the oil, and you’ll have to get a certified professional to look at it. Air Lock in the SystemFrom time to time, you may find air in the hydraulic system. Air can get in due to a leak in the system or from high temperatures in the oil, forming air bubbles, otherwise known as cavitation. The only way to check for air in the system is to bleed/purge the system. Broken Hydraulic Hoses and SealsHydrostatic transmissions work under tremendous pressure and can cause hoses and seals to break. When this happens, the oil will be replaced first by the reservoir and then air once the reservoir is empty. You can check for broken hoses and seals by inspecting them for spilled oil. Faulty Internal Mechanism Within Pump or MotorIf you have run through all other items in this list and still can’t find the problem, there’s likely an internal problem with the transmission. Fixing this will require the hydro system to be removed and opened up. Once you can see what’s going on inside, you’ll be able to diagnose the problem. Try These Solutions to Fix a Hydrostatic Mower that Will Not MoveSo you’ve run a diagnosis and discovered why the hydrostatic mower won’t move. Now it’s time to start your repair. Let’s go over the individual problems and see what can be done. Have the Hydrostatic Motors Been DisengagedThis isn’t really a repair; it’s just something that can be overlooked. On the lawn mower’s rear, you will find a long pin or metal rod coming from the hydro transmission. On some lawn mowers, this will be labeled and have a hoop that you can pull. The drive has disengaged if you can move the lawn mower with the brake off. Either push or pull the lever, and the mower should go back into drive. Ensure you only use this when the lawn mower is switched off and the brake is on. Be careful if your mower is on an incline because if your drive is already engaged and you disengage it, the mower will potentially roll away. Slipping Drive beltIf you have diagnosed that you have a bad or broken belt, you will need to get under the mower to fix it. Before you do, ensure that you remove the battery and apply the brake. Finally, chock the tires, so the mower can’t move. Installing a new belt on a hydrostatic drive requires you to remove the deck belt first, since it sits above the deck pulley. Take a spring puller and remove the tension spring from the deck belt. Next, remove the deck belt from the main engine pulley next to the clutch. Now you can move onto the clutch stop bracket and remove the bolts with a socket wrench. With both items removed, you will have clear access to the drive belt. Next, take your spring puller and remove the tension spring from the drive tension arm. Remove the drive belt from both the engine pulley and the hydrostatic pump pulley. Before installing a new belt, inspect both pulleys the drive belt attaches to and check for any damage or wear. If they are free of damage, you can proceed to install the new belt. Feed the new belt over both pulleys and hold it in place. Next, take your spring puller and apply tension back to the idler spring. Once there is enough tension to hold the belt in place, you can let go and use both hands on the puller. Install the spring back into its correct location, ensuring the belt remains in place. Now you can install the clutch stop bracket onto the lawn mower, ensuring that it secures the clutch correctly. Finally, align the deck belt and reinstall your deck idler spring. Congratulations, you have successfully installed a new drive belt. Lack of OilHere you just need to check the oil level within the hydrostatic oil reservoir, usually under the driver’s seat. Take a look to see if you have a fill level window on the side of the oil reservoir or an indicator with the filler cap. Make sure you top it off with the appropriate hydraulic oil, not just regular oil. Run the engine for several minutes and engage the drive backward and forwards to work the oil into the system. Once you have refilled the oil level, the drive will get stronger and stronger until it’s back to its original power. If you are still finding a problem, you might need to purge the air from the system. Purging Air from the Hydrostatic MotorsAir may get into the system when adding fresh oil or due to cavitation. When this happens, you’ll need to purge the system. Manufacturers know that this is a common problem and have provided a solution. Start by raising the lawn mower’s rear off the ground so that the drive wheels are off the floor. For this, it’s best to use a jack. Next, chock the front wheels so that the mower cannot move. Then release the bypass valve for the transaxle or both bypass valves for both pumps if you are repairing a zero-turn lawn mower. Once done, you can sit in the mower’s seat and start the engine. Next, apply forward drive and hold for a few seconds, then place it in reverse drive for a few seconds. Repeat this process several times. You will know that you have the valve bypassed because the drive wheels will not turn. Switch the lawn mower off and check the oil level within the hydrostatic oil reservoir. It should go down a little with purging and must be topped off. Now with the hydro purged, you can go ahead and close the bypass valves and remove the jack. Finally, start the lawn mower and take it for a drive. You should notice that the drive should be good as new after a minute or two. Repairing Broken Hydraulic Hoses and SealsIf you find oil leaking from a connection of a hose to the hydrostat, it’s likely because of a loose seal or hose. Before you try to remove the hose, try tightening it first. Something as minimal as a ¼ turn can create a leak that will, over time, drain the system enough to cause a problem. If you find this to be the case, run through the purge process and monitor the leak. Hopefully, it will stop. If the seal has completely gone or you have a split hose, then you will have to either replace a seal or replace the hose entirely. To do this, take a wrench and loosen off the nut holding the hose to the hydro. With the nut off, you should be able to remove the hose. Next, inspect the hose’s end to see if the seal is damaged. If it is, you can replace the o-ring seal and reinstall the hose. Repeat the removal process on both ends if you know you have a split hose. Before you install the hose, consider using a threadlock to prevent the nut from becoming loose in the future. Then, place the hose back into position and re-tighten the nut. To finish, run through the purging process to remove air and fill the oil level if needed. You may need to repeat the purging process a few times since a lot of oil may have been lost and replaced with air. Faulty Internal Mechanism Within Pump or MotorThe interiors of the pump and motor are made up of several internal parts. To fix it, you will have to remove the complete hydro system. I would categorize this as advanced mechanics, not your standard troubleshooting and repair. Additionally, you must be very careful because this could void your manufacturer and store warranties. If you have run through all of the problems on this list and are confident it’s none of them, I suggest you consult your lawn mower supplier for professional assistance. |